The Andes are, without question, among the most dramatic places on earth. Stretching like a spine from the southern tip of the South American continent all the way to Colombia in its very north, they are the world’s longest and its second highest mountain range. Sitting right in the centre of the range – and encompassing some of its finest scenery – is Peru. There are many ways to travel around the country and take some of its marvellous landscapes in, but one of the best is the PeruRail train between two of the country’s most famous sites – Lake Titicaca and Cusco.
Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable body of water, sitting at 3,800 metres above sea level. It is a place of desolate windswept beauty; a place where rocky slopes cloaked in yellow grass give way to pristine blue water and swaying reeds. In the distance are snow-capped mountains, and on the lake itself the indigenous people, also known as Uros build floating islands on which they live.
The pristine blue waters of Lake Titicaca hide a tourist gem, the scenic, tranquil and culturally rich Taquile Island. The island’s people, the self-sustaining Taquileños still speak Quechua, the ancient language of the Inca. The island is only accessible by boat. Once the boat docks on the cove, there is a short hike along a pre-Inca trail overlooking spectacular landscapes of the island. Taquile is known for producing some of Peru’s finest quality textiles and clothing. These delicately hand-knitted crafts is an activity exclusively reserved for men, a tradition practiced since the time of the Incas. Taquile’s hand-knitted textiles are considered so unique that they were named Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2005.
The lake straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia, and the town of Puno is the most popular base for travellers on the Peruvian side. From here, visitors can take trips out onto the lake, or visit some of the nearby pre-Hispanic ruins. The town itself possesses a few attractive colonial buildings and all this makes it a good place to spend a few days. It is from here that the PeruRail train leaves.
There are still working trains in Peru which are used for day-to-day transport and for moving goods around the country. This train, however, is not one of them. It exists solely to provide travellers with a memorable experience, and for this reason, is a lot more comfortable and grander than your average commuter train. The interiors of the carriages are all wooden panelling, dimmed yellow lighting and white tablecloths. It feels like something from the golden age of rail travel, not something that you immediately associate with Peru, but a welcome feature nonetheless.
Everything else about the journey, however, is designed to highlight what a spectacular and culturally rich country Peru is. You can walk freely between the dining carriages and the observation car, which has been fitted out with glass. Its windows extend across the roof to show off the big blue skies, and the rear of the car opens up into a balcony.
Peru is blessed with a huge variety of dramatic scenery, with everything from Amazon rainforests to one of the driest dessert on earth. The part of the country which the train travels through is known as the altiplano, and it alternates between sweeping open high altitude plains and jagged mountain peaks. Through the windows on one side, you might see empty grassland populated with only the occasional llama herd, while on the other, dramatic white peaks loom, casting their shadow over the train.
It feels impossibly lonely up here, but every now and again you are surprised by the sight of a tiny village rolling into view or someone walking alone across the empty landscape. The train passes through a few larger towns, and one of the most interesting comes soon after departing Puno. Juliaca is not the sort of place visitors would usually stop, however, passing through by train gives a fascinating glimpse of everyday life in the Peruvian Andes. The tracks cut right through the middle of the town market, with the stalls passing within touching distance. Locals go about their business, haggling for everything from food to building supplies, and children wave at you as they wait for the train to pass so they can cross the tracks. This is a slice of Peru at its most authentic.
Around halfway along, the train reaches its highest point, the pass at La Raya – a rare opening in the surrounding mountains which allows the track to cut through. At 4,319 metres above sea level and hemmed in by peaks, it’s hard to believe that this place would be inhabited if it wasn’t for the passing trains. Inhabited it is however (just about), and it is here that the train makes its only stop. It is worth using some of the time to peruse the small handicraft market, and some more to step inside the small chapel. Once you have done that, you have seen everything manmade that La Raya has to offer. The best thing about the stop, however, is the chance to step out into the spectacular scenery you have been passing, and spend some time taking it all in.
Peruvian culture is not just on display outside the train, you can experience it up close thanks to the entertainment included as part of the ticket. Passengers are serenaded by a band made up of guitars, tiple, flute, percussion and of course pan pipes. The haunting Andean melodies make a perfect addition to the landscapes rolling past outside. The indigenous culture of the altiplano is particularly colourful, and it is on full display in the dress and movement of the dancers who accompany the music.
After ten hours the train reaches Cusco, its final destination. If you visit Peru, the chances are you will end up in Cusco at some point. It is the starting point for visits to the famous Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, two of the country’s world famous attractions. The city itself was once the capital of the Inca Empire and later became an important colonial town for the Spanish. They built their opulent mansions, cathedrals and plazas right on top of the existing city, resulting in a unique hybrid architecture. Inca walls made from enormous stone blocks – somehow fitting together perfectly without the need for cement – sit next to whitewashed Iberian villas. Sometimes the two can be found within the same building. While most come here by road, the PeruRail train from Puno has to be the best way of arriving. You won’t get the luxurious comfort, the sweeping views and the exposure to Peruvian culture on a bus.
Prints from my trip on the Puno-Cusco train, as well as the rest of my South American adventure are available to purchase. Get in touch if you want to own a piece of the Peruvian landscape.
Coping with altitude sickness
Altitude sickness is a very real problem up in the high Andes, and most visitors will experience some effects. For many this will mean nothing more than a shortness of breath, but for an unlucky few, the headaches, nausea and dizziness can be enough to require hospital treatment. Fortunately, there are simple precautions which can reduce the effects of altitude.
Ascending slowly is one of the most effective ways of preventing altitude sickness. While many of the most breath-taking sights in the Andes are above 3,000 metres, there are plenty of things to see at lower elevations. Stopping for a few days at medium altitudes can help your body adjust gradually, and reduce the strain it feels when you get really high up.
Taking extra care to look after yourself is also important. While dehydration, drinking too much alcohol and pushing yourself too hard are always things to avoid, up in the mountains they can aggravate altitude sickness. Your body is having to work extra hard to glean as much oxygen from the thin air as it can, and it needs your help to do so. Staying hydrated and saving some energy helps keep the worst effects at bay.
