Travel

Wander out yonder: Exploring ancient Karijini National Park

22 November 2020 by tadgraphics

Karijini National Park is Western Australia's second largest national park, crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago — Karijini National Park is Western Australia’s second largest national park, crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago

It would be an enormous understatement to say that the coronavirus pandemic has disrupted the global travel industry. All over the world people have been prevented from travelling, and those that do attempt to take a holiday abroad risk cancellations, expensive flights and quarantines on their return. Over here in Western Australia we have successfully managed to keep the state free of COVID-19. But in order to do so, we have had to cut ourselves off – not just from the world, but from the rest of the country too.

Spinifex plants are common in the Pilbara. They grow in large clumps with many needle-like leaves giving the plant a hemispherical appearance — Spinifex plants are common in the Pilbara, they grow in large clumps with many needle-like leaves giving the plant a hemispherical appearance

Luckily for Western Australians, this beautiful State we call home is full of amazing things to see and do. With overseas and interstate options (at the time of writing) off the table, I, like many others, decided to take a look at travel opportunities closer to home and explore some of the natural wonders the west has to offer. We’re really spoilt for choice here in the vast region of Western Australia, but on this occasion I decided to venture to the far north, to the ancient Pilbara region.

Huge termite mounds and spinifex country are features of the Pilbara landscape

Due to the distance (almost 1,300 km from Perth) and relative cost compared to many neighbouring countries, it usually takes a determined traveller to make a trip that far north. For those that do make the effort though, there is one standout destination to reward their dedication, and that’s Karijini National Park. The park is home to 6,000 kilometres of bushland (making it the second largest national park in Western Australia), which is crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago. At the bottom of these gorges, the crystal-clear water has created a number of pools and waterfalls which, sheltered from the ferocious sun, make for an oasis of tranquillity.

The Pilbara region is best known for its mine sites

For many Western Australians the Pilbara region is best known as a place of work. At twice the size of the United Kingdom, it is where many of the mines which power Australia’s economy can be found. Despite having visited the Pilbara several times over the last few years, it has only ever been for work. So I never had any time to explore what the region had to offer, which was always disappointing.

I was lucky to witness the annual northern humpback whale migration that took place between May and September during my stay in Karratha

After taking a flight from Perth to Karratha, I spent a few days in the Pilbara’s largest town visiting my sister, before leaving early one morning for what I anticipated to be an exciting adventure. After an early start, we reached the Auski Tourist Village in Karijini by midday. Surrounded by spectacular landscape, the village is a gateway to some of Western Australia’s most magnificent natural wonders.

The Ngurin (Harding River) and the surrounding vegetation in Roehourne hold great significance to the Ngarluma people, the traditional owners of this land

After a short stop off for lunch, we continued on to the mining town of Tom Price and checked into our accommodation at the Tourist Park. We still had a few hours of daylight left, so we decided to have a look at nearby Mount Nameless. Getting there took us past Kings Lake, a beautiful parkland in a natural bush setting just outside of town. There is a walking trail which takes you up to the mountain, but unfortunately we didn’t have the time to climb all the way up and back in the light that remained. We were also conscious that it was snake season, and with Western Australia being home to a number of the world’s most dangerous serpents, it seemed like a good idea not to push ourselves to complete the three-hour plus hiking trail.

Kings Lake is a beautiful parkland in a natural bush setting located just outside of Tom Price

You’ll find a range of accommodation options in and around Karijini National Park. We opted to stay inside the park itself, at the Karijini Eco Retreat, mainly because the distances between the gorges are fairly large. So for us it was a better option to stay in the heart of the national park. Alternatively, the other option is to stay in nearby Tom Price, and make day trips to the park.

Mulla mulla wildflowers are in full bloom during spring, Mount Nameless, Tom Price

On the way to the Eco Retreat we took a detour so that we could visit Hamersley Gorge. It’s an idyllic swimming hole, and one of the most remote of all the gorges. Here, you can descend into the canyon and clamber along the rocks past a succession of pools. Before long, you reach Spa Pool. Although a little tricky to get to, it’s a truly gorgeous spot, fed by a small waterfall. The rock around the pool is smooth and curving, and it closes in to form a bowl. Instagram is plastered with shots of people swimming in the pool, but as we didn’t have our bathers with us, we satisfied ourselves with admiring it from afar.

The rock around the Spa Pool at Hamersley Gorge is smooth and curving, and it closes in to form a bowl

As we entered the main part of the park, it became apparent just how big an area it covered, and just how much there is to see. We were heading for a section called the Weano Recreation Area, where several of the best gorges are located. We realised that if we were going to hike down into the gorges, time constraints would mean that we would have to focus on just one. We decided that it would be better to take them all on from their lookouts.

You need to be physically fit to hike down to the base of Weano Gorge

We spent the whole afternoon in Weano taking in the Knox and Joffre gorges, both of which were spectacular. It was early evening and the sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light. Photographers refer to this part of the day as the golden hour, and besides helping to create beautiful pictures, the light at this time made the ochre rocks even more pronounced. Perhaps though, the highlight of the day was Oxer Lookout which we stopped at first. Here four of the gorges converge, and if seeing them individually is an experience, four at once is breathtaking.

Joffre Gorge is a spectacular curved waterfall forming a natural amphitheatre

The Eco Retreat is close to Weano, so we were able to enjoy the golden hour without having to worry about driving back in the dark. Rather than simply monopolising its position as the only accommodation within the park, the resort goes out of its way to provide a memorable stay. Most of the rooms are actually tents – albeit very luxurious ones – giving you the feeling of being immersed in the remote bush landscape. The emptiness of that landscape is humbling, and being so remote at night it is the perfect place for stargazing. After an enjoyable dinner, we took the opportunity to try our hand at astrophotography. You don’t get the chance to photograph this many stars in Perth, so it was an opportunity we didn’t want to miss.

The Karijini Eco Retreat is a perfect place to try my hand at astrophotography as I don't get the change to photograph this many stars in Perth — The Karijini Eco Retreat is a perfect place to try my hand at astrophotography as I don’t get the change to photograph this many stars in Perth

Many of the rest of Karijini’s spectacular sights are to be found in and around Dales Recreational Park. There is a direct road there from the resort, but not wanting to take any risk (it was badly corrugated), we decided to take the main road instead. We stopped at the visitor centre first to get some advice on what to prioritise, before continuing to our next destination.

Fortescue Falls is the park's only permanent waterfall located within the iron-rick Dales Gorge Fortescue Falls. The waterfall tumble 20 metres in cumulative height over a series of red stepped cascade adding a touch of drama — Fortescue Falls is the park’s only permanent waterfall located within the iron-rick Dales Gorge Fortescue Falls. The waterfall tumble 20 metres in cumulative height over a series of red stepped cascade adding a touch of drama

At the bottom of Dales Gorge are two of Karijini’s most popular attractions, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. Sheltered from the worst of the sun and irrigated by the emerald river water, Fern Pool is a refuge of life which contrasts with the arid country at the top of the cliffs. Here there are trees and grasses, and the dominant colour is green – a rare and welcoming sight when all around is red, orange and yellow. The Fortescue Falls flow into a similarly inviting pool, with the stepped cascade of the falls themselves adding a touch of drama.

Sheltered from the worst of the sun and irrigated by the emerald river water, Fern Pool is a refuge of life which contrasts with the arid country at the top of the cliffs

Circular Pool is the other big attraction in this part of the park, however at the tourist centre they had advised us that you can no longer walk down to the pool itself. This is because one of the many minerals which occur naturally in the rocks there is blue asbestos. Veins of the fibres can be seen in the walls of the cliffs, and it can be inhaled when blown into the air by the wind. We didn’t mind viewing it from the lookout however, as from the top it is quite a sight. The pool is an almost perfect circle, and the cliffs enclosing it are as steep as walls. As there is nowhere else to buy food, the resort provides pack lunches, and we enjoyed ours at the picnic area above the pool while contemplating the wonders that nature can create.

Karijini National Park is home to 6,000 kilometres of bushland, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago

We spent most of the afternoon relaxing at the Eco Retreat after a quick stop en route at Western Australia’s second highest mountain, Mount Bruce. We also returned to Joffre Gorge for sunset to admire the waterfall there as we watched the light fade. The next morning it was time to leave, so we made our way back to Karratha for our flight back to Perth.

I have seen many memorable places in different parts of the world, but I was glad that I had finally taken the time to see some of the incredible nature wonders of my home state. A trip to the remote and ancient Karijini National Park has been on my travel bucket list for a long time. There are few places outside of Australia that compare. Little did I know that it would take a worldwide pandemic to inspire me to finally tick this world class attraction off my ever growing list of must-see places.

Getting to Karijini National Park

It takes approximately seventeen hours to drive the 1,300 kilometres from Perth. If you enjoy epic road trips, take the Great Northern Highway out of the city and keep going until you get there. You won’t find much in the way of towns on the way, however you will get to experience the vastness of Australia first hand.

Although you won’t find much in the way of towns on the way, you get to experience the vastness of Australia first hand

Alternatively, you can either fly to one of two nearby mining towns, Paraburdoo and Newman, or, as I did, to Karratha. Following my route will mean a longer drive, but you could squeeze in a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage nominated Burrup Peninsula too, while you are there. If you choose to fly you will need to hire a car, and preferably a 4WD. When hiring a car, make sure that the conditions of hire allow you to drive off-road, as many of them do not allow off-road driving.

Mount Nameless at Tom Price during golden hour

Survival tips

The Australian outback is famous worldwide for being the sort of place you don’t want to get lost in. While it is completely safe to travel to Karijini, you do have to take some precautions. It gets extremely hot in Australia’s North West, so make sure you have plenty of water with you. This is especially important if you plan to spend any time hiking around the gorges. The only place you can purchase food within the park is the Eco Retreat, so ensure that you are well stocked with snacks and/or meals as well before you enter. You will also need to fill up with petrol before you set off, and you should carry some spare as well. The nearest petrol stations can be found at Tom Price and the Auski Tourist Village.

The Oxer Lookout at Weano Recreation Area offers breathtaking panoramic views of four amazing gorges, namely Weano, Red, Hancock and Joffre Gorges

Being a popular attraction (and surrounded by important mining centres), the roads taking you to the national park have been sealed. But once you access the park you’ll realise the importance of having a car that’s capable of handling corrugated dirt roads. Although you won’t need four-wheel driving training to get around, you should slow down when necessary and take extra care when driving inside the park. This is especially true if you don’t have much experience driving off the bitumen.

The sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light, helping to create beautiful pictures — The warm amber light during golden hour helps to create beautiful pictures

Prints from my Karijini National Park photo collection are available to purchase in various sizes and framing options. Feel free to get in touch to find out more. And don’t forget to follow my travel adventures on Instagram.

Mount Nameless, also known as Jarndunmunha, is the second highest accessible mountain by four wheel drive in Western Australia

More wander out yonder travel inspiration

Mulla mulla in Tank Hill, Wickham. These lovely purple wildflowers are abundant in the Pilbara during spring

Hamersley Gorge is an idyllic swimming hole. You can descend into the canyon and clamber along the rocks past a succession of pools

The hemispherical appearance of Spinifex covering the hills gave the Pilbara landscape the iconic hummocky look, Weano Gorge

Several of the best gorges are located in the Weano Recreation Area

Early evening at Knox Gorge and the sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light

Most of the rooms in Karijini Eco Retreat are actually tents – albeit very luxurious ones – giving you the feeling of being immersed in the remote bush landscape, taken during sunrise

Termite mounds is a unique feature of the Pilbara, taken during sunset at Karijini Eco Retreat

Many minerals which occur naturally in the rocks there is blue asbestos

Unique iron-rich rock formation at Fortescue Falls

I am fascinated by the tree formations in Karijini

We said hi to a local resident at Circular Pool

Mulla mulla wildflowers are everywhere during spring

The Pilbara is known for its Aboriginal peoples, ancient landscapes, red earth and iron ore

Joffre Gorge is especially impressive after rain as water cascades down the step-like cliff face to a dark pool. Unfortunately when we visited during spring there wasn't any rain — Joffre Gorge is especially impressive after rain as water cascades down the step-like cliff face to a dark pool. Unfortunately when we visited during spring there wasn’t any rain

Whim Creek was once a thriving town established to service copper and gold mines in the region located on the North West Coastal Highway midway between Karratha and Port Hedland

Valparaiso: a UNESCO listed city by the sea

11 October 2020 by tadgraphics

Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities. — Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities

Chile’s capital Santiago is home to a wealth of attractions. But besides its own charms, another of its advantages is that there is an abundance of things to see nearby too. Perhaps most well known among these is Valparaiso – the quirky World Heritage port city famous for its colourful houses, artistic atmosphere and edgy ‘anything goes’ vibe.

The Euporean heritage in Valparaiso is obvious

Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities. But that’s a big part of its charm. Just a 90-minute drive from Santiago, it’s an ideal destination for a day trip. And so, with our time in South America coming to an end, we took the opportunity to visit Valparaiso and see if we would also fall for its unexpected charms.

We were greeted by friendly locals at Emiliana Winery

We set off for a full day’s adventure with our knowledgeable and friendly local guide, Hugo. Who incidentally had also been our guide when we visited Santiago. So we already knew that we were in good hands to see the best that Valparaiso had to offer.

The selection of wines available from Emiliana Winery

While the snow-capped peaks of the Andes are inland of Santiago, there are mountains and hills extending all the way to the coast. The road to Valparaiso took us first through a tunnel underneath the mountains, and then threaded its way along the strips of flat land between the slopes. About two thirds of the way along we reached our first stop – the Casablanca Valley.

Emiliana Winery where we sampled some Chilean wines

Wine lovers might recognise the name, because the region is well known for producing excellent grapes. There are plenty of vineyards to choose from, but one of the most renowned – and the one which Hugo took us to – is the Emiliana Winery. The winery was a tranquil and picturesque place to spend the morning, thanks in part to the neat green rows of vines that contrasted strikingly with the muted colours of the hills rising up behind them.

After sampling the wine (it was superb, by the way), we continued on to our main destination just in time for lunch. Valparaiso was a bit different to the cities we had experienced so far on our trip. In fact, it has a very different feel to much of the rest of the continent. Its European heritage is clear, but you won’t find the whitewashed Spanish villas with terracotta tiles arranged in a grid, like in most historic Latin American towns. Some of the buildings look Alpine or Germanic in design, and the way the city is strewn over the hills and draped down into the sea is reminiscent of Lisbon or even Istanbul.

Bohemian and colorful, Valparaiso’s maze of hills has long inspired poets and writers

Valparaiso was and still is Santiago’s port. Much of the goods that have entered and exited Chile since its settlement have come through the port city, and so you might expect the city to have a gritty, functional feel to it. However, the truth could not be more different. Valparaiso is one of South America’s artistic capitals, and colour is everywhere. From the elaborate street art which adorns many of its walls, to the simple fact that a large proportion of its buildings are painted bright green, blue and red, a similar Bohemian character to that found in Lastarria back in Santiago permeates the city. Its crazy colourful architecture is quite a sight to behold.

Elaborate street art adorns many of its walls

The city’s geography means that many of these colourful houses are perched on steep hillsides, making them extra visible and hard to miss. Its streets meander and wind up and around the slopes wherever the incline permits, adding to Valparaiso’s character. Many of these are impassable to public transport, so an inventive solution had to be found. Dating back to the 1880s, funiculars (a type of cable car) are used to ferry people up and down the hills, and today they are one of the city’s main attractions. There are sixteen in total, but not all are currently in use. Most of the funiculars (locals call them ascensors) were completed before the 1920s, but the last one opened in 1983. Despite advances in technology this antiquated form of transport is still one of the most useful in a place like this.

Valparaiso is one of South America's artistic capitals — Valparaiso is one of South America’s artistic capitals

We concluded our Valparaiso tour with a trip to the port. In a city with little flat building space, things have to be put wherever there is space. Given the importance the docks have had in the city’s history it is fitting that the port is still right in the heart of things. People driving into the city to shop or to take their children to school share Valparaiso’s main thoroughfares with trucks carrying wine, fish and metals to be shipped across the world.

Its streets meander and wind up and around the slopes wherever the incline permits

It’s down in the docks where Valparaiso starts to make sense. Many of the world’s port cities are functional places, and when you think of dockworkers you probably don’t imagine a group of people with an appreciation for art and avant-garde culture. Valparaiso’s culture however, as creative as it is, is a working class one. It is authentic, energetic and not at all pretentious. Which is probably why the city is so likeable.

Valparaiso was and still is Santiago's port — Valparaiso was and still is Santiago’s port

While the port is still busy, it lost some of its importance after the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. Before this ships had been forced to make their way round the bottom of South America and would stop here en route. The resulting downturn in fortunes caused some decline. But when the artists moved in to revitalise the city they didn’t replace the culture, they enhanced it.

Large proportions of its buildings are painted in bright colours, a similar Bohemian character to that found in Lastarria in Santiago

Time always flies when you are having fun, and even though we made the most of our short day trip, more time in Valparaiso would not have been wasted. There is enough to see to keep you occupied for several days. So for anyone travelling for an extended time, it would be a good place to stop for a while to explore more thoroughly.

Palacio Baburizza museum's art gallery has a large collection of European and Chilean works - dated between 1800 and 1990 — Palacio Baburizza museum’s art gallery has a large collection of European and Chilean works – dated between 1800 and 1990

As the evening approached we left Valparaiso and made our way back through the valleys to Santiago. We were slightly disappointed that we didn’t have enough time to explore its upmarket sister city Viña del Mar, just fifteen minutes up the coast. None the less we left with wonderful memories of this unique and colourful World Heritage city.

Santiago: a cosmopolitan city surrounded by the snow-capped Andes

26 May 2020 by tadgraphics

View of the vibrant, busy and modern Santiago from Cerro Santa Lucia

For travellers looking for an exciting South American adventure, Chile’s capital city has become a very popular destination in recent years. While Santiago has long since served as the gateway to the country for most visitors, its appealing cosmopolitan culture does a wonderful job of enticing tourists to stick around to see what this incredible city has to offer.

Santiago's newest attraction, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscrapper is Latin America's tallest building — Santiago’s newest attraction, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscrapper is Latin America’s tallest building

As one of South America’s top tourist spots, Santiago is well deserving of its time under the spotlight. After all, what South America has to offer goes way beyond the hype of iconic cities like Argentina’s Buenos Aires or Brazil’s Rio de Janeiro. If you’re visiting South America for the very first time, Chile is the perfect stop off if you’re looking for an introduction to the culture and chaos the country is beloved for.

The Former National Congress Building are fine examples of the neo-classical architecture

When researching things to see and do in Chile prior to our trip, we were immediately struck by the natural geography of the country. As the fourth largest continent, South America is one of the world’s most unique shaped countries. The bottom half of South America is shaped like a cone, with the mighty Andes mountain range running down one side of the continent. Cut off from the rest of the continent by these mountains and the deserts to the north, is Chile. Over four thousand kilometres long but less than two hundred across at its widest point, the country makes the most of the limited area between the Andean slopes and the Pacific Ocean.

The neo-classical Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral was built in the 1700s

You might expect this hidden corner of an already remote continent to be a forgotten and parochial place. Yet this far-away land is home to a surprisingly cosmopolitan city. A vibrant, busy and modern metropolis, Santiago has established itself as somewhere worth going out of your way to see. From spectacular scenery and colonial old town charm, to world class restaurants and bohemian nightlife, Santiago has something for everyone.

Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral, Plaza de Armas

Santiago was just one stop on our South American tour. But it was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We had been in Cusco absorbing Peru’s Inca legacy, before we flew in to the city after making our way from Lima. With an all too short stop off in Santiago, we had a lot to fit in. Often the best way to experience what a city has to offer is by hiring a local tour guide. Our guide, Hugo, picked us up from the airport and took us straight to the hotel which was to be our Santiago base. We met Hugo the next morning, excited and eager to explore the city and get a taste of some of Santiago’s highlights.

Neo-classical architecture was popular in Chile in the 1800s

Things to see and do in Santiago

The first stop of our tour was the Plaza de Armas. All of Latin America’s colonial cities were built around a grand central square and Santiago is no different. It has the stately colonial buildings, the statues and fountains, but the trees that dominate the square give it a more tranquil feel than many other South American cities. A few blocks away is the La Moneda Presidential Palace and getting there involved walking through the old streets of the city centre, past the former national congress building. Both the congress and the palace are fine examples of the neo-classical architecture that was popular in Chile in the 1800s, and Hugo regaled us with their history as we walked.

La Moneda Changing of the Guard Ceremony occurs every 48 hours

In front of the La Moneda Palace is another beautiful plaza, complete with fountains and fourteen large Chilean flags. It was busy when we arrived as the changing of the guard ceremony was about to take place. We watched as the new guards came in to replace the old, marvelling as they marched in unison. Similar events take place outside most palaces in Europe, and have become must see tourist attractions for visitors lucky enough to witness such a spectacle. But this one was livelier than most thanks to the brass band which provided an energetic soundtrack to the fascinating ritual.

Cerro Santa Lucia is converted to a park and home to several ornate monuments

Next it was on to Cerro Santa Lucia, a small hill which interrupts the glass towers and historic buildings of the city centre. Converted into a park, it is home to several ornate monuments including a castle, the dramatic fountain of Neptune, and various statues commemorating aspects of Chile’s past. From here we moved on to Bandera Street to see one of Santiago’s most colourful attractions. What had previously been a busy thoroughfare has been pedestrianised, and a 10,000-square meter piece of artwork had been installed along the ground. Bright colourful patterns swirl beneath your feet as you walk, making this a perfect example of the city’s quirky character.

Bandera Street is one of Santiago’s most colourful attractions

Finally, Hugo took us to see one of Santiago’s newest attractions, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscraper. At 300 meters, it is currently Latin America’s tallest building. Completed in 2012 it is part of a huge development which includes offices and a shopping centre. Gran Torre demonstrates the city’s impressive modern ambitions. The top two floors of the tower are open to the public, and they provide the best vista in the city for tourists looking for an impressive 360° view. Perhaps the most impressive thing about the view is the mountains which rise above even the tower and enclose Santiago on three sides.

The Bohemian neighbourhood, Barrio Lastarria, is a center for cultural activity

We still had half the day left, so after we said our goodbyes to Hugo, we took a walk around Barrio Lastarria. Our tour had provided us with an opportunity to experience the highlights of the city centre, but each of inner Santiago’s neighbourhoods has an interesting character of its own. Lastarria was originally an area where the city’s richer inhabitants made their homes. Among those residents were artists and musicians, who quickly filled its streets with art and culture. And they continue to do so today. A stroll through its streets will take you past countless galleries, markets and street performers.

Boragó, a restaurant which came in at twenty-sixth in 2019 World 50 Best Restaurants list

Being big foodies, we were keen to sample some of the delicious culinary delights Santiago is well known for. And there was an abundance of restaurants in Lastarria that looked likely to have served us great food. But we had already made plans to dine in one of the city’s most popular eateries. On the edge of the city is Boragó, a restaurant which came in at twenty-sixth in 2019 World 50 Best Restaurants list. It has become famous in Chile (and beyond) for combining native ingredients with international fine dining trends. The end result is something pretty special, and this was the culinary highlight of our whole trip.

Luciano K is littered with fun decorative features

If Lastarria showcases the bohemian streak which runs through Santiago, Boragó illustrates that the city has a refined side to its character as well. Our hotel, to which we returned after dinner, managed to combine elements of both to create something memorable. Luciano K was built in the 1920s at the height of the art deco era, and when it was turned into a hotel the owners went to great lengths to retain the original features while also updating it to make it comfortable and luxurious. The hotel is littered with fun decorative features, but some of the most noticeable include the antique cage lift and the striking tiling which decorates much of the hotel.

Elaborate street art adorns many of Bellavista’s walls

The next morning was spent taking in the attractions on the northern side of the Mapocho River. As Santiago expanded, the artistic haven that residents created in Lastarria grew too. It spilt over the river into the Bellavista neighbourhood where they created a vibrant café culture and painted their terraced townhouses in equally vibrant colours. This tradition remains in the elaborate street art which adorns many of Bellavista’s walls. It’s a great place to wander around for a few hours, but there is another reason for visiting.

Cerro San Cristobal, Santiago's highest hill is home to a snowy white 14m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción — Cerro San Cristobal, Santiago’s highest hill, is home to a snowy white 14m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción

Bellavista sits at the bottom of the Cerro San Cristobal, the highest hill in central Santiago. Despite encroaching into the city, it has remained free of development and is now a park which boasts a zoo, botanical gardens and cable cars. We spent some time wandering around its shaded slopes, and at the top we were treated to more spectacular views of both the city and the snow-capped mountains surrounding it.

Santiago sunset from the rooftop bar in Luciano K

After all that exploring, we headed back to the popular tourist hub of Barrio Lastarria for a much-needed change of pace. Although we had soaked up some of its inviting atmosphere already, the best way to really get to know the area is to do what the locals do, and spend some time in its numerous bars. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon at our own leisure, soaking up the artistic, bohemian vibe Lastarria is well known for. And then it was back to the hotel to get ready for our onwards journey and another colourful city to explore, Valparaíso aka the Jewel of the Pacific. Just over an hour from Santiago, it’s another must-visit destination when you’re in Chile.

Goodbye Santiago and South America, till we meet again next time

50 shades of blue in the South Pacific

16 April 2020 by tadgraphics

Îlot Maître is mainly known for their overwater bungalows

Living in Western Australia, I am spoilt when it comes to magnificent beaches and inviting blue sea. We have some of the whitest sand in the world on our doorstep, as well as some of the clearest water running almost the entire length of our coast. That doesn’t mean, however, that I don’t look enviously at pictures of places like the Pacific islands and imagine that I was there relaxing in their ocean waves. One of the Melanesian nations in particular caught my eye and inspired my desire to travel – New Caledonia.

Situated on the tip of Pointe Magnin, Le Meridien overlooks the glistening waters of Anse Vata Bay

For much of the world, the South Pacific is almost impossibly far-flung, and it can take a prohibitive amount of time and money to get to. Luckily for us in Australia, they are among our closest neighbours. The French speaking New Caledonia is a manageable three-hour flight from Sydney and it actually took me longer to get over to Sydney from Perth, than it did to get from there to Noumea – the capital of New Caledonia.

It was mid-September when we went, meaning that we were there in the cooler and drier part of the year. As we would be spending much of our time outside on beaches and boats, this was a good thing. We arrived in the evening and were met at the airport by our shuttle bus driver. I would recommend pre-booking airport transfers as the distance between La Tontouta International Airport and Noumea is approximately 52 km. He took us the short distance through the city and around the bay of Sainte-Marie to our hotel for the night – Le Meridien Noumea Resort and Spa.

View of Bay of Sainte-Marie from Le Meridien Hotel balcony

Noumea is built on a wiggly peninsula and Le Meridien sits right at the very end. This is where the best beaches in the city are and, thanks to the hill which separates it from the rest of Noumea, it feels tranquil and detached, despite being a stone’s throw from the rest of the city. The next day, after breakfast, we took in our surroundings with a walk on the beach. It was pretty special – white sands, blue sea and swaying palm trees – but we were headed to somewhere even better.

Just off Noumea is a string of small islands. Many are uninhabited – some are barely more than strips of sand – but all are about as close to the stereotypical tropical paradise as it is possible to get. You can visit them from Noumea, but if you want to maroon yourself in this Eden and forget the rest of the world exists, then you have to stay a few days on Îlot Maître.

Note: Îlot is a French word for small island

Overwater bungalow at Îlot Maître feature an undisturbed view of the lagoon with the natural reserve in the background

It didn’t take long to drive to Port Moselle, jump on a boat and cruise over to the island. We were settled into our bungalow by just after midday. The island is roughly rectangular and is just 700 metres long (170 metres across at its widest point). Every inch of shoreline is carpeted with white sand, and every other inch – hotel buildings aside – is covered in tropical scrub. The hotel designers have taken a spectacular natural setting and done everything they can to enhance it. Most of the bungalows are tastefully hidden away between the trees, with the more expensive ones built onto a pier allowing guests to sleep directly above the crystal water.

Îlot Maître is the perfect place to do nothing but admire the beauty that surrounds you

It is the perfect place to do nothing but admire the beauty that surrounds you. We spent that afternoon and the next day relaxing and exploring. It doesn’t take long to wander the length of an island this size, but once you have walked the beaches you can stroll out into the shallow transparent water and gaze down at the sand beneath. Canoes are available to guests as well, so we spent some time taking a look at the island’s reef.

We were fortunate enough to have three days on Îlot Maître, so we spent the third day visiting some of the other islands. The Blue Lagoon taxi boat company runs a number of trips and we booked a boat and a guide to take us out. Our guide, Johan was kind enough to pick us up from Îlot Maître and showed us around, beginning with Îlot Goéland – a white speck surrounded by the deepest blue. Mostly sand, the island has a patch of grass and three trees. It’s lack of features doesn’t stop it being spectacular though, it is a humbling experience to be alone in such a beautiful and empty place.

Îlot Goéland – a white speck surrounded by the deepest blue

Shipwreck site of motor vessel "Ever Prosperity" cargo ship from Monrovia, Liberia that sank in 1965 on the West Coast barrier reef, Coral sea — Shipwreck site of motor vessel “Ever Prosperity” cargo ship from Monrovia, Liberia that sank in 1965 on the West Coast barrier reef, Coral sea

Our last stop was Aimedee – another tiny picture-perfect island. Here we could snorkel and we spent some time paddling around the pristine water. Johan left us there for a few hours, so we had more than enough time to take everything in. The main attraction – and the island’s only structure – is the lighthouse, built to guide ships through a gap in the reef and into Noumea. It is the highest point for miles with sweeping views. Unfortunately for us, you can only climb it if you visit as part of a tour group. We had to satisfy ourselves with admiring it from below.

The Amedee Lighthouse is built to guide ships through a gap in the reef and into Noumea

When Johan returned, we made our way back to Îlot Maître, and from there we caught the ferry back to Noumea. As the boat sped back across the darkening water, behind us a magnificent sunset developed. The blues which had accompanied us at every turn, transformed into oranges, reds and yellows as the sun dropped below the horizon.

Magnificent sunset as we travelled on the Coral Sea back to Noumea

Prints from my trip to New Caledonian adventure are available to purchase. Get in touch if you want to own a piece of the South Pacific.

Îlot Maître is a remote island off Noumea accessible by either water taxi or resort ferry

You can stroll out into the shallow transparent water and gaze down at the sand beneath

You can see some reef by walking along the shallow water

At certain times of the year, Îlot Goéland is closed as it is an important mating site for eagles

Mostly sand, Îlot Goéland has a patch of grass and three trees

New Caledonia is home to the longest barrier reef in the world, and the third largest in terms of total area

As the reef rises to meet the surface of the ocean, it transforms the water into a patchwork containing every conceivable shade of blue

Amedee Island is a little paradise surrounded by crystal clear waters, pure white sandy beaches and a coral garden alive with fish

The main attraction – and Amedee Island’s only structure – is the lighthouse

Just off Noumea is a string of small islands. Many are uninhabited – some are barely more than strips of sand

You can snorkel and spend some time paddling around the pristine water off Amedee Island

Through the lens: exploring the Margaret River region

6 March 2020 by tadgraphics

Canal Rocks sunset — Canal Rocks is a popular spot to watch the sunset, photographed in autumn 2018

The Margaret River region is Western Australia’s finest stretch of coastline, renowned for excellent wines, big waves that classify it among the best surf locations on the planet, and its spectacular coastal landscapes. As an outdoor enthusiast, and a landscape photographer, I am fortunate to be surrounded by such an abundance of unspoiled natural beauty just a few hours drive from Perth. For me, the best way to experience “Margs” is on foot. Whenever I get a chance, I take my hiking boots, my camera and tripod, and head down one of its scenic trails.

Dunsborough

Among my favourite spots along Margaret River’s coast is Sugarloaf Rock, a gigantic towering granite island weathered by the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean, located in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park off Cape Naturaliste. It’s no wonder this place of surreal beauty is considered one of the prime nature photography locations in Western Australia.

Castle Rock, Dunsborough — A climb to the top of Castle Rock in Dunsborough offers breathtaking ocean views, photographed in summer 2020

A climb to the top of Castle Rock in Dunsborough on the east side of Cape Naturaliste, promises further breathtaking ocean views. There is a short trail up the hill leading to the lookout where you can observe migrating humpback whales between September and November. But even when the whales aren’t around, this place is definitely worth a visit for its calm and turquoise bay protected from the westerly winds and ocean swell.

Eagle Bay, Dunsborough — Eagle Bay in Dunsborough is famous for its pristine beach and impossibly blue waters, photographed in summer 2020

Another awe-inspiring site in the national park is Eagle Bay, with its pristine beaches and impossibly blue waters. This tranquil spot has somehow managed to remain hidden from the tourist crowds. It’s the perfect place to contemplate and refresh mind and spirit.

Yallingup

Nestled on the hillside above surf beaches and limestone caves, the quaint town of Yallingup is worth a detour. A narrow timber walkway leads to the striking Canal Rocks. Watching the treacherous waves break over the rocky islands and surge under your feet as you stand on the wooden bridge is exhilarating and an experience out of the ordinary. Further south, Wyadup Bay with its stunning coastal views, is arguably one of the best places to appreciate the power and splendour of the ocean.

Injidup Natural Spa, Yallingup — The Injidup Natural Spa in Yallingup is a popular swimming spot in summer, photographed in winter 2018

Just a few minutes drive down the scenic Caves Road lies the popular Injidup Natural Spa. This magnificent rock pool was formed where pounding ocean waves have gradually eroded the granite headland. As the water cascades over the rocks, it foams and bubbles creating the spa effect. Although the pool can get crowded, there’s no better place to spend a relaxing day away from the city hustle.

Smiths Beach, Yallingup — Smiths Beach in Yallingup is famous for its powdered white sand, photographed in autumn 2018

Augusta-Margaret River

Boranup Karri Forest, Caves Road, Margaret River — A drive along scenic Caves Road will take you to the famous Boranup Karri Forest, photographed in summer 2019

Boranup Karri Forest is another natural wonder unique to Western Australia. The forest is home to giant karri trees, the third tallest tree species in the world. This forest is the furthest west that the tall pale-barked karri trees grow. Take the stunning scenic drive through the forest will take you to the Boranup Lookout. Situated above the forest canopy, this lookout rewards with sweeping views of white sand and crystal clear turquoise waters of Hamelin Bay. The calm, sheltered bay is also known for its abundance of stingrays that swim right up to the shore. Along the Hamelin Bay Beach’s southern end, unusual formations of sandstone and coral rock layers positioned at strange angles create an impressive landscape that has long been one of my favourites.

Hamelin Bay, Augusta — The calm, sheltered Hamelin Bay is known for its abundance of stingrays that swim right up to the shore, photographed in summer 2020

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, the tallest one on mainland Australia, and the most south-westerly point on the mainland of the Australian Continent, is situated a stone’s throw from the small fishing town of Augusta. I never tire of taking in the astounding view at this dramatic location where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet at the most south-westerly point of Australia.

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, Augusta — Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in Augusta is the most south-westerly point on the mainland of the Australian Continent, photographed in autumn 2017

Stay

Some of my favourite accommodation in the Margaret River region are:

Hidden Valley Forest Retreat, Carbunup River
Empire Spa Retreat, Yallingup
Pullman Bunker Bay Resort, Naturaliste

Wyadup Bay, Yallingup — Wyadup Bay with its stunning coastal views, is arguably one of the best places to appreciate the power and splendour of the ocean, photographed in autumn 2017

The diverse landscape of the Margaret River region offers endless possibilities for great nature photography. Prints from my Margaret River photo collection were exhibited around the world and are available in various sizes and framing options. Feel free to get in touch to find out more or follow me on Instagram.

Wyadup Rocks, Yallingup — The hike between Wyadup Bay and Canal Rocks is approximately 1 km, photographed in autumn 2018

Autumn in Margaret River — The Margaret River region is a photographer’s heaven in autumn

Machu Picchu – a 15th century Inca citadel

4 January 2020 by tadgraphics

The famous shot of Machu Picchu, view of the main square from the city gate. Huayna Picchu is hidden behind the cloud — The iconic shot of Machu Picchu, view of the main square from the city gate. Huayna Picchu is hidden behind the cloud

Pretty much everyone who visits Peru goes to Machu Picchu at some point. For many people it is the main reason for visiting the country. It is without doubt one of the most recognisable places in the world, and one of the most photographed. It is considered to be one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, as it is one of the most significant pieces of human patrimony.

Agricultural terraces, you can more clearly how the terraces were built, amazingly, the Inca managed to carve out their stepped terrace farms even on these near vertical slopes

We too were making our way there, but we had taken the scenic route. We crossed the Altiplano by train and visited several other Inca sites; stopped at Cusco, Ollantaytambo and Pisac among others, and each had been breath-taking and deserving of some of Machu Picchu’s fame. Like everyone else however, we were looking forward to seeing the big one. There is a reason everybody wants to go to Machu Picchu.

The nearest settlement is Aguas Calientes, and this is where we stayed overnight. After breakfast, we walked over to the tourist information centre where we met with our guide and caught the bus. Guides are mandatory when visiting Machu Picchu, a requirement set by the government. As well as providing visitors with some context, they also help ensure that the huge numbers of tourists are managed (thus protecting the site), and also provides employment for Peruvians. We had got a sense of how huge those numbers were while in Aguas Calientes, but it was rammed home as we waited for the bus. The queue was very, very long.

On a clear day you can see a beautiful view of the valley below, this is an abandoned quarry

Machu Picchu is the historic site which gets by far the most attention in Peru. However, for the Inca who built it, this was far from their most important settlement. In fact, it was a relative backwater. The remote location, on the top of a mountain hidden up an inaccessible valley, is what makes it so spectacular, but it also made it a poor place to build a thriving city. Instead (clearly being a man who appreciated natural beauty), the Inca Emperor Pachacuti decided to build a personal estate to give himself a place to retreat from the pressures of ruling. At its height, Machu Picchu had a population of around 750 people, but this probably would have increased when Pachacuti visited.

The Palace of the Princess or Ñusta Palace

The weather on the morning we visited was overcast, thus making it the perfect temperature to go climbing up and down steep hills. As we climbed up to the site however, the clouds started moving in and when we reached the top, the rain started. As we wandered around the views were obscured by mist and being a photographer, I knew I was being denied some great shots. Despite this, we weren’t too disappointed because as the mist swirled around the jagged ruined walls, it added to the ethereal atmosphere of the place.

The semi-circular structure is the Temple of the Sun, Royal Residence behind the thatched roof. You can see the eastern urban sector in the background

Our guide led us along the increasingly muddy paths which loop around the ruins. She showed us the settlement’s main square, the circular tower (most likely used as an observatory), and the sacred solar clock. We were shown the palace where the emperor would have stayed, the temple of the three windows and then the cemeteries. The upper part of the city is home to the palace and the sacred temples. Just below are the houses that the bulk of the population would have lived in as well as the grain warehouses. Amazingly, the Inca managed to carve out their stepped terrace farms even on these near vertical slopes. As you look down at the valley below, you can still see the stone embankments they built to give themselves scraps of flat land to grow crops on.

Despite the weather and the crowd, the majesty of Machu Picchu is undeniable, and it was clear that its UNESCO world heritage site status is more than justified. It is a magical, mysterious place that feels like something from a fantasy story. The American explorer, Hiram Bingham, must have found it even more so when he rediscovered it in 1911. He had the place all to himself (with the exception of his indigenous guide, of course). In fact he would have been one of just a handful of visitors since the site was abandoned by the Inca during the Spanish conquest hundreds of years before.

Bingham was a real life Indiana Jones, whose adventures are as fantastical as Machu Picchu itself. Coming from a family of missionaries in Hawaii, he set of for Chile in 1908 for a conference and instead of returning home, decided to wander through the jungles of Peru looking for lost Inca cities. Machu Picchu was not the first that he discovered, he was also the first to document the existence of Vilcabamba, also known as the Lost City of Inca. It was the city where the last Inca emperors hid and mounted a guerrilla campaign against the Spanish. He had heard rumours of another forgotten city, high up in the mountains, and eventually persuaded a villager named Melchor Arteaga from the valley below to take him there. Although others probably visited Machu Picchu before him, he was the first to document it and bring it to the world’s attention.

Mysterious yet beautiful view looking down to the valley

Hiram Bingham took a photo of the site from a viewpoint looking down over it. This is the same famous shot which hundreds of people now take every day. It shows the ruins, the sheer cliff faces on either side, and the equally sheer peak towering behind. This is Huayna Picchu, and if you really want the full experience, it can be climbed as well. To do so, however, you need to book well in advance – its narrow paths only allow a certain number of people at a time, and so access is controlled by the Peruvian Government. If you want to climb it, you have to book at least three months ahead.

Steep terraces, looking down from Intihuatana

Another measure imposed to limit the impact of the huge number of visitors Machu Picchu generates, is to limit the time you can spend there to a maximum of four hours. If you really wanted to, you could spend a whole day up there taking it all in, but four hours is long enough to see everything, so we didn’t feel deprived. At around midday we headed back down to Aguas Calientes and enjoyed some lunch. Then we wandered around the souvenir markets while we waited for the late afternoon train back to Ollantaytambo. There, we met our driver and headed back to Cusco. While the weather had been against us, that couldn’t take away our delight at having visited such an awe inspiring place.