After spending a fun few days exploring Queenstown, the Remarkables and some of the surrounding area, we had got a taste for New Zealand’s striking mountains. We had already seen some otherworldly scenery (many of which we recognised from the big screen), and ventured to some of the area’s lesser known spots. This was just one small part of South Island’s Alpine range however, and we had allowed ourselves time to see what else this magical island had to offer. We had already seen snow on the Duffers Saddle, but the glaciers of the West Coast region promised to provide an even more exciting winter experience.
Our route from Queenstown took us along the Crown Range Road – an attraction in its own right. Winding its way through the mountains of the Mount Aspiring National Park before flirting with the coastline, it is truly spectacular. While the Duffers Saddle is the highest drivable road in the country, this is New Zealand’s highest major highway reaching 1,076 meters at its uppermost point. Along the way we passed Lake Wanaka and had the chance to stop for photos at the famous Wanaka tree. It’s a popular location for tourists and photographers, and while it can get a little crowded at times, it’s well worth the stop off if you’re in the area.
We were accompanied by rain clouds on our drive down to Fox Glacier, the village where we would be staying. Our chosen accommodation for our short stay was Distinction Fox Glacier Te Weheka Hotel. It’s a bit of a mouthful, and not the easiest of names to remember, but the hotel was great. It’s in the perfect location, close to the centre of town, and the building itself was charming. Named after the nearest glacier, the village largely exists for tourism. It is very small, and so its visitor-centric nature doesn’t make it feel tacky. The actual nature surrounding it is picturesque to say the least, with tree-covered hills providing a pleasing backdrop and the larger snow-capped mountains behind peaking out every now and then to remind you why you are there.
Despite the beauty of our surroundings, that rain was playing on our minds. The highlight of our time in the area was set to be a heli hike up on the Franz Josef Glacier, and helicopters can be sensitive when it comes to bad weather. So we were a bit apprehensive, especially as we had been told that 80% of the tours end up being cancelled for this reason. The weather is extremely volatile in this region and conditions can change hour to hour. Things were not looking promising.
Fortunately for us luck was on our side. The next morning conditions were clear (if a little cold), and after a quick briefing we walked through the forest to the waiting helicopter. As we gained altitude the majesty of the geography revealed itself to us, and Franz Josef Glacier quickly came into view. Then we descended and landed directly on the ice of the glacier. The next couple of hours were spent hiking across the frozen water led by our guide Jara. As the shape of the ice changes regularly, we had to make sure that we followed him closely as he cut a path for us. While I have seen snowy places before, walking through this unique and inaccessible place is a completely different experience.
Afterwards it was back to the helicopter for another round of views before touching down in Franz Josef. The experience of flying in a helicopter is always something to remember. Combined with the chance to walk on a glacier, well it’s an experience that should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is a fairly expensive day due to the nature of it, however you get what you pay for and the trip is worth every cent.
Once back in town we still had the whole afternoon and the next morning to see what else Fox Glacier had to offer. After lunch we set off to the nearby Lake Matheson. There are many lakes in this part of New Zealand, but Lake Matheson is one of the most photogenic. Its waters reflect the peaks of both Mount Cook and Mount Tasman, while pine trees reached all the way to its shores. Both are impressive, but Aoraki (to give Mount Cook its indigenous name) has the distinction of being the highest in the country. It’s pretty breathtaking to the eye.
Thanks to its impressive reflections, Lake Matheson is sometimes called the Mirror Lake. Unfortunately its original Māori name is lost to time, but that doesn’t mean that it wasn’t important. In fact it was a Mahinga Kai – a place where food was traditionally obtained.The weather had well and truly turned around, and we were blessed with sunshine for the duration of our hike around the lake. We had enough time to walk the trail which winds around the lake, and for me to shoot it from a variety of angles.
While Franz Josef Glacier is perhaps more spectacular, Fox Glacier itself is pretty impressive, and you do not need a helicopter to get there. It’s a one hour hike to reach the viewing platform, and so this is how we filled the next morning. The walk took us along the floor of the valley before we were suddenly confronted with the face of the glacier towering over us. The day before we had been right on top of Franz Josef Glacier, so to look up at one of these natural wonders from below helped us put their size into perspective.
Once we got back into town it was straight onto our next destination – a two hour drive to the beachside town of Hokitika.
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