Photography

Nineteen glorious years of QQ: Lessons in love, resilience and the heart of a faithful companion

13 August 2026 by tadgraphics

The gift of QQ: Love, laughter and lessons

On 24 July 2026, my beloved companion QQ completed her nineteen-year journey, leaving behind a legacy of love, resilience and unforgettable moments together.

Wei, Lynndy and I picked QQ’s name before we even adopted her. We got the idea after watching the Hong Kong drama Heart of Greed which featured a cute, chubby cat named QQ. When we visited Cat Haven in early 2008, she was just a small kitten—maybe 6 to 9 months old—but already clever and street-smart. She had her sister (they called them Paddy and Salma, though we never figured out which was which) tapped me on the foot to get my attention while she watched from inside. We only met her after going in, and to make herself known, she sneezed right onto Wei. That was it—she chose us. We later found out her early months had been rough, so she really wanted a forever home. She was a smart cookie, as we always said.

QQ came home to keep Furbro Mao Mao company and the two of them were inseparable. She followed Mao Mao everywhere and learned all his habits—how to groom, use the litter properly and of course how to be stubborn. Once, she tried to follow Mao Mao over the fence, forgetting she was half his size, and got herself stuck in a tree. It took forever to get her down because she was so timid, but even then, you could see her determination.

During those early years we brought home Tammy, another rescued cat. QQ and Tammy never really got along. After one fight Tammy chased QQ and QQ hit her eye on the corner of an open cabinet. An emergency trip to the vet left QQ with a permanent scar on her eye but thankfully her vision was okay.

In 2010, when I moved house, QQ became the only cat at home. She was always shy with visitors, either hiding or sitting up high on her cat tree, just watching everything like a little queen. She never needed attention from everyone but her presence was always felt. On full moon nights she’d do wild zoomies around the living room then curl up by the window or leap onto my stomach. I’ll always remember those moments.

In 2022, when QQ was almost 16, she faced her toughest challenge. After surgery to remove a lump she stopped eating and drinking and we rushed her to the emergency hospital. She was diagnosed with stage 4 kidney disease. The vets suggested saying goodbye but QQ was a fighter. I brought her home and tried everything I could: monthly acupuncture, traditional Chinese medicine, supplements and homemade care. Amazingly her kidney disease improved to stage 1. I let her enjoy her food because her happiness was my top priority. Even though she was stubborn and picky she loved the meals I prepared for her, most times at least.

QQ loved lying in the sun on the balcony during summer, just watching the world outside. When it got too hot, she would cool off in front of the air conditioner on her cat sofa. She always knew how to find comfort. In winter, she would come into the bathroom while I showered to enjoy the warm air and keep me company.

In 2024, QQ had another lump removed, and I was worried about her having general anesthesia at her age. But she made it through, proving the oncologist wrong when they said she only had up to eight months to live. As always, QQ kept going and never gave up.

In 2025, QQ caught a bad flu during the cold winter. Her lungs got congested, but with daily massages, warm towel wipes, and homemade chicken broth, she recovered without any medical intervention. The vets were amazed by her resilience.

QQ faced many challenges in her life and bravely overcame them all. But at 19, she faced something she couldn’t beat: aggressive stomach cancer. I chose to give her a peaceful goodbye, surrounded by love. In her last days, she still looked out for me, sitting at the edge of the bed every night. When she was weak, she’d still insist on using the litter herself and climb the stairs to the bed, even though it tired her out. Her independence and pride never faded, not even at the end. I’m sorry I couldn’t save her this time. I did everything I could to make her comfortable. Watching her get weaker in the last few weeks broke my heart.

Nineteen years is seriously old for a cat—over 100 in human years! But QQ still looked awesome for her age. That tortoiseshell coat of hers was gorgeous, and her pink nose was just the cutest thing. Pretty much everyone who met her commented on those features. People always said how well she was cared for, but honestly, it was her stubbornness and fighting spirit that really made her special. QQ was a bit vain too—she loved a good grooming session, and she’d put up with manicures and pedicures as long as there was a treat at the end.

QQ was strong-willed, spiritual, and affectionate with the people she trusted. She really had tortitude: diva, sassy, protective, determined, resilient, and responsible. She loved her tuna and her sashimi-grade pan fried salmon, was a champion sleeper, and spent many cozy winters under the covers with her electric blanket.

I’ve never seen a cat loved and cared for by so many people, both near and far. I feel so lucky to have had her as my sweet little girl. Thank you to everyone for your love, care, and well wishes for QQ throughout her life. Your kindness meant so much to both of us.

I’ll miss all the cuddles, the times she sat on my lap, the face-palming to wake me up, her curling up in her bed to keep me company while I worked, and that constant meow when she wanted something. I’ll miss our nightly walks down the corridor and our time together while I groom, massage, and give you a hot face towel wipe before bedtime. QQ, you’ve taught me patience, resilience, and how to love unconditionally. Now, sweet QQ, you don’t have to take any more medicine twice a day, no more tough blood and urine tests, and no more daily fluids. Nineteen years wasn’t enough, but I’m endlessly grateful for every moment.

Rest well, sweet QQ. You are the best gift anyone can ask for and one that I will always cherish. You’re now free from all your responsibilities. Enjoy everything you love on the other side of the rainbow bridge. Run free, my precious. You found your furever home, and you will forever live in my heart. I’ll be OK. I miss you so much, but I’ll always carry you with me.

I chose 24 July to remind you that you will forever be in my heart—every hour of every day, all year round. You deserve nothing but the very best.

Good night, my darling; I am sure we’ll meet again one day.

Waterfall images and Feng Shui: Unleashing prosperity and serenity

2 July 2023 by tadgraphics

Lesmurdie Cascades in full flow, winter 2023

In the modern world, we are constantly seeking ways to invite positive energy and tranquillity into our lives. One such way is through the ancient art of Feng Shui. In this post, we will explore the powerful role of waterfalls in Feng Shui, and how they can transform your home into a haven of prosperity and serenity.

Waterfalls in Feng Shui: More than just an element

In Feng Shui, water is not just a simple element. It symbolises wealth and the continuous flow of opportunities. Waterfalls, with their unending, powerful flow, serve as the perfect metaphor for the never-ending flow of universal abundance. By strategically placing images of waterfalls in your home, you can tap into this natural energy and invite more prosperity into your life.

Placement matters: Inviting wealth into your home

The positioning of these waterfall images is as crucial as the images themselves. Feng Shui principles suggest that waterfalls should be placed on the same wall as the front entrance. This placement ensures that it appears as if the water – and thus, the wealth – is flowing into the home, rather than out of it, fostering a feeling of abundance and attracting positive energy into your household.

The tranquillity brought by waterfalls in Feng Shui

In Feng Shui, waterfalls not only hold a financial significance but also bring a sense of tranquillity and peace. The calming image of a waterfall, with its soothing sounds and majestic appearance, can create a serene atmosphere in your home. This tranquillity can help reduce stress, boost mood, and even foster creativity.

Serene Hopetoun Falls. In Feng Shui, waterfalls not only hold a financial significance but also bring a sense of tranquillity and peace.

Waterfalls in Feng Shui: How to optimise your home

Waterfall images serve as a bridge between the outdoor natural world and our indoor living spaces. This connection can help us feel more grounded and at peace, promoting overall well-being. Here are some quick tips to incorporate waterfalls into your home decor according to Feng Shui:

The waterfall image should evoke feelings of serenity and abundance. Look for images with vibrant colours and dynamic movement that capture the power and grace of waterfalls
The size of the image should be proportionate to the space it is going into. A large wall would benefit from a larger image, while a smaller space might require a more compact image
Choose a frame that complements the image and your home decor. A well-chosen frame not only protects the image but also enhances its visual appeal
Good lighting can make a significant difference in how your waterfall image is perceived. Make sure the image is well-lit so that all its beautiful details can be appreciated
Dust and dirt can disrupt the flow of positive energy. Ensure your waterfall image is kept clean and dust-free.

Embrace waterfalls in your home

I hope you’ve enjoyed this exploration of waterfalls in Feng Sui. Now, it’s time to transform your home into a sanctuary of prosperity and tranquillity. At Tse Yin Chang Photography, I offer an exquisite collection of waterfall photographs that are not just visually stunning but also carry the essence of Feng Shui principles.

All of my artwork is available in a range of sizes and materials to ensure you can customise it to your preferences. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Celebrating 10 years of MERC

4 January 2021 by tadgraphics

Over the weekend of 28 and 29 November 2020, I attended the annual Mining Emergency Response Competition (MERC) in Langley Park, Perth. Now in its 10th year, the event hosts teams from across Western Australia, as they complete challenges inspired by real life emergency situations.

Synergy Muja Power Station at confined space

It’s an action packed weekend, and once again I was asked to photograph the event. It’s something I’ve been doing for ten years now. And I always enjoy the opportunity to put my event photography skills to good use.

MERC is a not-for-profit event that provides world class emergency rescue training and skill building opportunities for volunteer mines rescue teams. Over the course of two days, they compete in a range of realistic scenarios covering all emergency response disciplines; road crash rescue, hazardous material response, vertical rescue, fire fighting, confined space, emergency team readiness and first aid.

As most of you know, I mainly photograph landscapes and the natural world. But I also have quite a bit of experience when it comes to photographing events, mainly through my day job.

I’ve chosen a selection of my favourite photographs from this year’s event. Please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you’re in need of a photographer to capture the highlights of your next event.

Take a look at our portfolio to see some of our promotional and other photography.

Pannawonica Volunteer Fire and Rescue Service at confined space

Rio Tinto Supply Chain and Services at road crash

AngloGold Ashanti Tropicana at vertical rescue

AngloGold Ashanti Tropicana at fire fighting

Wander out yonder: Exploring ancient Karijini National Park

22 November 2020 by tadgraphics

Karijini National Park is Western Australia's second largest national park, crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago — Karijini National Park is Western Australia’s second largest national park, crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago

It would be an enormous understatement to say that the coronavirus pandemic has disrupted the global travel industry. All over the world people have been prevented from travelling, and those that do attempt to take a holiday abroad risk cancellations, expensive flights and quarantines on their return. Over here in Western Australia we have successfully managed to keep the state free of COVID-19. But in order to do so, we have had to cut ourselves off – not just from the world, but from the rest of the country too.

Spinifex plants are common in the Pilbara. They grow in large clumps with many needle-like leaves giving the plant a hemispherical appearance — Spinifex plants are common in the Pilbara, they grow in large clumps with many needle-like leaves giving the plant a hemispherical appearance

Luckily for Western Australians, this beautiful State we call home is full of amazing things to see and do. With overseas and interstate options (at the time of writing) off the table, I, like many others, decided to take a look at travel opportunities closer to home and explore some of the natural wonders the west has to offer. We’re really spoilt for choice here in the vast region of Western Australia, but on this occasion I decided to venture to the far north, to the ancient Pilbara region.

Huge termite mounds and spinifex country are features of the Pilbara landscape

Due to the distance (almost 1,300 km from Perth) and relative cost compared to many neighbouring countries, it usually takes a determined traveller to make a trip that far north. For those that do make the effort though, there is one standout destination to reward their dedication, and that’s Karijini National Park. The park is home to 6,000 kilometres of bushland (making it the second largest national park in Western Australia), which is crisscrossed by a network of river systems, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago. At the bottom of these gorges, the crystal-clear water has created a number of pools and waterfalls which, sheltered from the ferocious sun, make for an oasis of tranquillity.

The Pilbara region is best known for its mine sites

For many Western Australians the Pilbara region is best known as a place of work. At twice the size of the United Kingdom, it is where many of the mines which power Australia’s economy can be found. Despite having visited the Pilbara several times over the last few years, it has only ever been for work. So I never had any time to explore what the region had to offer, which was always disappointing.

I was lucky to witness the annual northern humpback whale migration that took place between May and September during my stay in Karratha

After taking a flight from Perth to Karratha, I spent a few days in the Pilbara’s largest town visiting my sister, before leaving early one morning for what I anticipated to be an exciting adventure. After an early start, we reached the Auski Tourist Village in Karijini by midday. Surrounded by spectacular landscape, the village is a gateway to some of Western Australia’s most magnificent natural wonders.

The Ngurin (Harding River) and the surrounding vegetation in Roehourne hold great significance to the Ngarluma people, the traditional owners of this land

After a short stop off for lunch, we continued on to the mining town of Tom Price and checked into our accommodation at the Tourist Park. We still had a few hours of daylight left, so we decided to have a look at nearby Mount Nameless. Getting there took us past Kings Lake, a beautiful parkland in a natural bush setting just outside of town. There is a walking trail which takes you up to the mountain, but unfortunately we didn’t have the time to climb all the way up and back in the light that remained. We were also conscious that it was snake season, and with Western Australia being home to a number of the world’s most dangerous serpents, it seemed like a good idea not to push ourselves to complete the three-hour plus hiking trail.

Kings Lake is a beautiful parkland in a natural bush setting located just outside of Tom Price

You’ll find a range of accommodation options in and around Karijini National Park. We opted to stay inside the park itself, at the Karijini Eco Retreat, mainly because the distances between the gorges are fairly large. So for us it was a better option to stay in the heart of the national park. Alternatively, the other option is to stay in nearby Tom Price, and make day trips to the park.

Mulla mulla wildflowers are in full bloom during spring, Mount Nameless, Tom Price

On the way to the Eco Retreat we took a detour so that we could visit Hamersley Gorge. It’s an idyllic swimming hole, and one of the most remote of all the gorges. Here, you can descend into the canyon and clamber along the rocks past a succession of pools. Before long, you reach Spa Pool. Although a little tricky to get to, it’s a truly gorgeous spot, fed by a small waterfall. The rock around the pool is smooth and curving, and it closes in to form a bowl. Instagram is plastered with shots of people swimming in the pool, but as we didn’t have our bathers with us, we satisfied ourselves with admiring it from afar.

The rock around the Spa Pool at Hamersley Gorge is smooth and curving, and it closes in to form a bowl

As we entered the main part of the park, it became apparent just how big an area it covered, and just how much there is to see. We were heading for a section called the Weano Recreation Area, where several of the best gorges are located. We realised that if we were going to hike down into the gorges, time constraints would mean that we would have to focus on just one. We decided that it would be better to take them all on from their lookouts.

You need to be physically fit to hike down to the base of Weano Gorge

We spent the whole afternoon in Weano taking in the Knox and Joffre gorges, both of which were spectacular. It was early evening and the sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light. Photographers refer to this part of the day as the golden hour, and besides helping to create beautiful pictures, the light at this time made the ochre rocks even more pronounced. Perhaps though, the highlight of the day was Oxer Lookout which we stopped at first. Here four of the gorges converge, and if seeing them individually is an experience, four at once is breathtaking.

Joffre Gorge is a spectacular curved waterfall forming a natural amphitheatre

The Eco Retreat is close to Weano, so we were able to enjoy the golden hour without having to worry about driving back in the dark. Rather than simply monopolising its position as the only accommodation within the park, the resort goes out of its way to provide a memorable stay. Most of the rooms are actually tents – albeit very luxurious ones – giving you the feeling of being immersed in the remote bush landscape. The emptiness of that landscape is humbling, and being so remote at night it is the perfect place for stargazing. After an enjoyable dinner, we took the opportunity to try our hand at astrophotography. You don’t get the chance to photograph this many stars in Perth, so it was an opportunity we didn’t want to miss.

The Karijini Eco Retreat is a perfect place to try my hand at astrophotography as I don't get the change to photograph this many stars in Perth — The Karijini Eco Retreat is a perfect place to try my hand at astrophotography as I don’t get the change to photograph this many stars in Perth

Many of the rest of Karijini’s spectacular sights are to be found in and around Dales Recreational Park. There is a direct road there from the resort, but not wanting to take any risk (it was badly corrugated), we decided to take the main road instead. We stopped at the visitor centre first to get some advice on what to prioritise, before continuing to our next destination.

Fortescue Falls is the park's only permanent waterfall located within the iron-rick Dales Gorge Fortescue Falls. The waterfall tumble 20 metres in cumulative height over a series of red stepped cascade adding a touch of drama — Fortescue Falls is the park’s only permanent waterfall located within the iron-rick Dales Gorge Fortescue Falls. The waterfall tumble 20 metres in cumulative height over a series of red stepped cascade adding a touch of drama

At the bottom of Dales Gorge are two of Karijini’s most popular attractions, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. Sheltered from the worst of the sun and irrigated by the emerald river water, Fern Pool is a refuge of life which contrasts with the arid country at the top of the cliffs. Here there are trees and grasses, and the dominant colour is green – a rare and welcoming sight when all around is red, orange and yellow. The Fortescue Falls flow into a similarly inviting pool, with the stepped cascade of the falls themselves adding a touch of drama.

Sheltered from the worst of the sun and irrigated by the emerald river water, Fern Pool is a refuge of life which contrasts with the arid country at the top of the cliffs

Circular Pool is the other big attraction in this part of the park, however at the tourist centre they had advised us that you can no longer walk down to the pool itself. This is because one of the many minerals which occur naturally in the rocks there is blue asbestos. Veins of the fibres can be seen in the walls of the cliffs, and it can be inhaled when blown into the air by the wind. We didn’t mind viewing it from the lookout however, as from the top it is quite a sight. The pool is an almost perfect circle, and the cliffs enclosing it are as steep as walls. As there is nowhere else to buy food, the resort provides pack lunches, and we enjoyed ours at the picnic area above the pool while contemplating the wonders that nature can create.

Karijini National Park is home to 6,000 kilometres of bushland, many of which carved out spectacular gorges through the ochre rock over two billion years ago

We spent most of the afternoon relaxing at the Eco Retreat after a quick stop en route at Western Australia’s second highest mountain, Mount Bruce. We also returned to Joffre Gorge for sunset to admire the waterfall there as we watched the light fade. The next morning it was time to leave, so we made our way back to Karratha for our flight back to Perth.

I have seen many memorable places in different parts of the world, but I was glad that I had finally taken the time to see some of the incredible nature wonders of my home state. A trip to the remote and ancient Karijini National Park has been on my travel bucket list for a long time. There are few places outside of Australia that compare. Little did I know that it would take a worldwide pandemic to inspire me to finally tick this world class attraction off my ever growing list of must-see places.

Getting to Karijini National Park

It takes approximately seventeen hours to drive the 1,300 kilometres from Perth. If you enjoy epic road trips, take the Great Northern Highway out of the city and keep going until you get there. You won’t find much in the way of towns on the way, however you will get to experience the vastness of Australia first hand.

Although you won’t find much in the way of towns on the way, you get to experience the vastness of Australia first hand

Alternatively, you can either fly to one of two nearby mining towns, Paraburdoo and Newman, or, as I did, to Karratha. Following my route will mean a longer drive, but you could squeeze in a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage nominated Burrup Peninsula too, while you are there. If you choose to fly you will need to hire a car, and preferably a 4WD. When hiring a car, make sure that the conditions of hire allow you to drive off-road, as many of them do not allow off-road driving.

Mount Nameless at Tom Price during golden hour

Survival tips

The Australian outback is famous worldwide for being the sort of place you don’t want to get lost in. While it is completely safe to travel to Karijini, you do have to take some precautions. It gets extremely hot in Australia’s North West, so make sure you have plenty of water with you. This is especially important if you plan to spend any time hiking around the gorges. The only place you can purchase food within the park is the Eco Retreat, so ensure that you are well stocked with snacks and/or meals as well before you enter. You will also need to fill up with petrol before you set off, and you should carry some spare as well. The nearest petrol stations can be found at Tom Price and the Auski Tourist Village.

The Oxer Lookout at Weano Recreation Area offers breathtaking panoramic views of four amazing gorges, namely Weano, Red, Hancock and Joffre Gorges

Being a popular attraction (and surrounded by important mining centres), the roads taking you to the national park have been sealed. But once you access the park you’ll realise the importance of having a car that’s capable of handling corrugated dirt roads. Although you won’t need four-wheel driving training to get around, you should slow down when necessary and take extra care when driving inside the park. This is especially true if you don’t have much experience driving off the bitumen.

The sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light, helping to create beautiful pictures — The warm amber light during golden hour helps to create beautiful pictures

Prints from my Karijini National Park photo collection are available to purchase in various sizes and framing options. Feel free to get in touch to find out more. And don’t forget to follow my travel adventures on Instagram.

Mount Nameless, also known as Jarndunmunha, is the second highest accessible mountain by four wheel drive in Western Australia

More wander out yonder travel inspiration

Mulla mulla in Tank Hill, Wickham. These lovely purple wildflowers are abundant in the Pilbara during spring

Hamersley Gorge is an idyllic swimming hole. You can descend into the canyon and clamber along the rocks past a succession of pools

The hemispherical appearance of Spinifex covering the hills gave the Pilbara landscape the iconic hummocky look, Weano Gorge

Several of the best gorges are located in the Weano Recreation Area

Early evening at Knox Gorge and the sun was enveloping the landscape in a warm amber light

Most of the rooms in Karijini Eco Retreat are actually tents – albeit very luxurious ones – giving you the feeling of being immersed in the remote bush landscape, taken during sunrise

Termite mounds is a unique feature of the Pilbara, taken during sunset at Karijini Eco Retreat

Many minerals which occur naturally in the rocks there is blue asbestos

Unique iron-rich rock formation at Fortescue Falls

I am fascinated by the tree formations in Karijini

We said hi to a local resident at Circular Pool

Mulla mulla wildflowers are everywhere during spring

The Pilbara is known for its Aboriginal peoples, ancient landscapes, red earth and iron ore

Joffre Gorge is especially impressive after rain as water cascades down the step-like cliff face to a dark pool. Unfortunately when we visited during spring there wasn't any rain — Joffre Gorge is especially impressive after rain as water cascades down the step-like cliff face to a dark pool. Unfortunately when we visited during spring there wasn’t any rain

Whim Creek was once a thriving town established to service copper and gold mines in the region located on the North West Coastal Highway midway between Karratha and Port Hedland

Valparaiso: a UNESCO listed city by the sea

11 October 2020 by tadgraphics

Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities. — Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities

Chile’s capital Santiago is home to a wealth of attractions. But besides its own charms, another of its advantages is that there is an abundance of things to see nearby too. Perhaps most well known among these is Valparaiso – the quirky World Heritage port city famous for its colourful houses, artistic atmosphere and edgy ‘anything goes’ vibe.

The Euporean heritage in Valparaiso is obvious

Described by Lonely Planet as “a wonderful mess”, Valparaiso is certainly one of Chile’s most unusual cities. But that’s a big part of its charm. Just a 90-minute drive from Santiago, it’s an ideal destination for a day trip. And so, with our time in South America coming to an end, we took the opportunity to visit Valparaiso and see if we would also fall for its unexpected charms.

We were greeted by friendly locals at Emiliana Winery

We set off for a full day’s adventure with our knowledgeable and friendly local guide, Hugo. Who incidentally had also been our guide when we visited Santiago. So we already knew that we were in good hands to see the best that Valparaiso had to offer.

The selection of wines available from Emiliana Winery

While the snow-capped peaks of the Andes are inland of Santiago, there are mountains and hills extending all the way to the coast. The road to Valparaiso took us first through a tunnel underneath the mountains, and then threaded its way along the strips of flat land between the slopes. About two thirds of the way along we reached our first stop – the Casablanca Valley.

Emiliana Winery where we sampled some Chilean wines

Wine lovers might recognise the name, because the region is well known for producing excellent grapes. There are plenty of vineyards to choose from, but one of the most renowned – and the one which Hugo took us to – is the Emiliana Winery. The winery was a tranquil and picturesque place to spend the morning, thanks in part to the neat green rows of vines that contrasted strikingly with the muted colours of the hills rising up behind them.

After sampling the wine (it was superb, by the way), we continued on to our main destination just in time for lunch. Valparaiso was a bit different to the cities we had experienced so far on our trip. In fact, it has a very different feel to much of the rest of the continent. Its European heritage is clear, but you won’t find the whitewashed Spanish villas with terracotta tiles arranged in a grid, like in most historic Latin American towns. Some of the buildings look Alpine or Germanic in design, and the way the city is strewn over the hills and draped down into the sea is reminiscent of Lisbon or even Istanbul.

Bohemian and colorful, Valparaiso’s maze of hills has long inspired poets and writers

Valparaiso was and still is Santiago’s port. Much of the goods that have entered and exited Chile since its settlement have come through the port city, and so you might expect the city to have a gritty, functional feel to it. However, the truth could not be more different. Valparaiso is one of South America’s artistic capitals, and colour is everywhere. From the elaborate street art which adorns many of its walls, to the simple fact that a large proportion of its buildings are painted bright green, blue and red, a similar Bohemian character to that found in Lastarria back in Santiago permeates the city. Its crazy colourful architecture is quite a sight to behold.

Elaborate street art adorns many of its walls

The city’s geography means that many of these colourful houses are perched on steep hillsides, making them extra visible and hard to miss. Its streets meander and wind up and around the slopes wherever the incline permits, adding to Valparaiso’s character. Many of these are impassable to public transport, so an inventive solution had to be found. Dating back to the 1880s, funiculars (a type of cable car) are used to ferry people up and down the hills, and today they are one of the city’s main attractions. There are sixteen in total, but not all are currently in use. Most of the funiculars (locals call them ascensors) were completed before the 1920s, but the last one opened in 1983. Despite advances in technology this antiquated form of transport is still one of the most useful in a place like this.

Valparaiso is one of South America's artistic capitals — Valparaiso is one of South America’s artistic capitals

We concluded our Valparaiso tour with a trip to the port. In a city with little flat building space, things have to be put wherever there is space. Given the importance the docks have had in the city’s history it is fitting that the port is still right in the heart of things. People driving into the city to shop or to take their children to school share Valparaiso’s main thoroughfares with trucks carrying wine, fish and metals to be shipped across the world.

Its streets meander and wind up and around the slopes wherever the incline permits

It’s down in the docks where Valparaiso starts to make sense. Many of the world’s port cities are functional places, and when you think of dockworkers you probably don’t imagine a group of people with an appreciation for art and avant-garde culture. Valparaiso’s culture however, as creative as it is, is a working class one. It is authentic, energetic and not at all pretentious. Which is probably why the city is so likeable.

Valparaiso was and still is Santiago's port — Valparaiso was and still is Santiago’s port

While the port is still busy, it lost some of its importance after the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. Before this ships had been forced to make their way round the bottom of South America and would stop here en route. The resulting downturn in fortunes caused some decline. But when the artists moved in to revitalise the city they didn’t replace the culture, they enhanced it.

Large proportions of its buildings are painted in bright colours, a similar Bohemian character to that found in Lastarria in Santiago

Time always flies when you are having fun, and even though we made the most of our short day trip, more time in Valparaiso would not have been wasted. There is enough to see to keep you occupied for several days. So for anyone travelling for an extended time, it would be a good place to stop for a while to explore more thoroughly.

Palacio Baburizza museum's art gallery has a large collection of European and Chilean works - dated between 1800 and 1990 — Palacio Baburizza museum’s art gallery has a large collection of European and Chilean works – dated between 1800 and 1990

As the evening approached we left Valparaiso and made our way back through the valleys to Santiago. We were slightly disappointed that we didn’t have enough time to explore its upmarket sister city Viña del Mar, just fifteen minutes up the coast. None the less we left with wonderful memories of this unique and colourful World Heritage city.

Santiago: a cosmopolitan city surrounded by the snow-capped Andes

26 May 2020 by tadgraphics

View of the vibrant, busy and modern Santiago from Cerro Santa Lucia

For travellers looking for an exciting South American adventure, Chile’s capital city has become a very popular destination in recent years. While Santiago has long since served as the gateway to the country for most visitors, its appealing cosmopolitan culture does a wonderful job of enticing tourists to stick around to see what this incredible city has to offer.

Santiago's newest attraction, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscrapper is Latin America's tallest building — Santiago’s newest attraction, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscrapper is Latin America’s tallest building

As one of South America’s top tourist spots, Santiago is well deserving of its time under the spotlight. After all, what South America has to offer goes way beyond the hype of iconic cities like Argentina’s Buenos Aires or Brazil’s Rio de Janeiro. If you’re visiting South America for the very first time, Chile is the perfect stop off if you’re looking for an introduction to the culture and chaos the country is beloved for.

The Former National Congress Building are fine examples of the neo-classical architecture

When researching things to see and do in Chile prior to our trip, we were immediately struck by the natural geography of the country. As the fourth largest continent, South America is one of the world’s most unique shaped countries. The bottom half of South America is shaped like a cone, with the mighty Andes mountain range running down one side of the continent. Cut off from the rest of the continent by these mountains and the deserts to the north, is Chile. Over four thousand kilometres long but less than two hundred across at its widest point, the country makes the most of the limited area between the Andean slopes and the Pacific Ocean.

The neo-classical Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral was built in the 1700s

You might expect this hidden corner of an already remote continent to be a forgotten and parochial place. Yet this far-away land is home to a surprisingly cosmopolitan city. A vibrant, busy and modern metropolis, Santiago has established itself as somewhere worth going out of your way to see. From spectacular scenery and colonial old town charm, to world class restaurants and bohemian nightlife, Santiago has something for everyone.

Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral, Plaza de Armas

Santiago was just one stop on our South American tour. But it was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We had been in Cusco absorbing Peru’s Inca legacy, before we flew in to the city after making our way from Lima. With an all too short stop off in Santiago, we had a lot to fit in. Often the best way to experience what a city has to offer is by hiring a local tour guide. Our guide, Hugo, picked us up from the airport and took us straight to the hotel which was to be our Santiago base. We met Hugo the next morning, excited and eager to explore the city and get a taste of some of Santiago’s highlights.

Neo-classical architecture was popular in Chile in the 1800s

Things to see and do in Santiago

The first stop of our tour was the Plaza de Armas. All of Latin America’s colonial cities were built around a grand central square and Santiago is no different. It has the stately colonial buildings, the statues and fountains, but the trees that dominate the square give it a more tranquil feel than many other South American cities. A few blocks away is the La Moneda Presidential Palace and getting there involved walking through the old streets of the city centre, past the former national congress building. Both the congress and the palace are fine examples of the neo-classical architecture that was popular in Chile in the 1800s, and Hugo regaled us with their history as we walked.

La Moneda Changing of the Guard Ceremony occurs every 48 hours

In front of the La Moneda Palace is another beautiful plaza, complete with fountains and fourteen large Chilean flags. It was busy when we arrived as the changing of the guard ceremony was about to take place. We watched as the new guards came in to replace the old, marvelling as they marched in unison. Similar events take place outside most palaces in Europe, and have become must see tourist attractions for visitors lucky enough to witness such a spectacle. But this one was livelier than most thanks to the brass band which provided an energetic soundtrack to the fascinating ritual.

Cerro Santa Lucia is converted to a park and home to several ornate monuments

Next it was on to Cerro Santa Lucia, a small hill which interrupts the glass towers and historic buildings of the city centre. Converted into a park, it is home to several ornate monuments including a castle, the dramatic fountain of Neptune, and various statues commemorating aspects of Chile’s past. From here we moved on to Bandera Street to see one of Santiago’s most colourful attractions. What had previously been a busy thoroughfare has been pedestrianised, and a 10,000-square meter piece of artwork had been installed along the ground. Bright colourful patterns swirl beneath your feet as you walk, making this a perfect example of the city’s quirky character.

Bandera Street is one of Santiago’s most colourful attractions

Finally, Hugo took us to see one of Santiago’s newest attractions, the Gran Torre, a 62-story tall skyscraper. At 300 meters, it is currently Latin America’s tallest building. Completed in 2012 it is part of a huge development which includes offices and a shopping centre. Gran Torre demonstrates the city’s impressive modern ambitions. The top two floors of the tower are open to the public, and they provide the best vista in the city for tourists looking for an impressive 360° view. Perhaps the most impressive thing about the view is the mountains which rise above even the tower and enclose Santiago on three sides.

The Bohemian neighbourhood, Barrio Lastarria, is a center for cultural activity

We still had half the day left, so after we said our goodbyes to Hugo, we took a walk around Barrio Lastarria. Our tour had provided us with an opportunity to experience the highlights of the city centre, but each of inner Santiago’s neighbourhoods has an interesting character of its own. Lastarria was originally an area where the city’s richer inhabitants made their homes. Among those residents were artists and musicians, who quickly filled its streets with art and culture. And they continue to do so today. A stroll through its streets will take you past countless galleries, markets and street performers.

Boragó, a restaurant which came in at twenty-sixth in 2019 World 50 Best Restaurants list

Being big foodies, we were keen to sample some of the delicious culinary delights Santiago is well known for. And there was an abundance of restaurants in Lastarria that looked likely to have served us great food. But we had already made plans to dine in one of the city’s most popular eateries. On the edge of the city is Boragó, a restaurant which came in at twenty-sixth in 2019 World 50 Best Restaurants list. It has become famous in Chile (and beyond) for combining native ingredients with international fine dining trends. The end result is something pretty special, and this was the culinary highlight of our whole trip.

Luciano K is littered with fun decorative features

If Lastarria showcases the bohemian streak which runs through Santiago, Boragó illustrates that the city has a refined side to its character as well. Our hotel, to which we returned after dinner, managed to combine elements of both to create something memorable. Luciano K was built in the 1920s at the height of the art deco era, and when it was turned into a hotel the owners went to great lengths to retain the original features while also updating it to make it comfortable and luxurious. The hotel is littered with fun decorative features, but some of the most noticeable include the antique cage lift and the striking tiling which decorates much of the hotel.

Elaborate street art adorns many of Bellavista’s walls

The next morning was spent taking in the attractions on the northern side of the Mapocho River. As Santiago expanded, the artistic haven that residents created in Lastarria grew too. It spilt over the river into the Bellavista neighbourhood where they created a vibrant café culture and painted their terraced townhouses in equally vibrant colours. This tradition remains in the elaborate street art which adorns many of Bellavista’s walls. It’s a great place to wander around for a few hours, but there is another reason for visiting.

Cerro San Cristobal, Santiago's highest hill is home to a snowy white 14m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción — Cerro San Cristobal, Santiago’s highest hill, is home to a snowy white 14m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción

Bellavista sits at the bottom of the Cerro San Cristobal, the highest hill in central Santiago. Despite encroaching into the city, it has remained free of development and is now a park which boasts a zoo, botanical gardens and cable cars. We spent some time wandering around its shaded slopes, and at the top we were treated to more spectacular views of both the city and the snow-capped mountains surrounding it.

Santiago sunset from the rooftop bar in Luciano K

After all that exploring, we headed back to the popular tourist hub of Barrio Lastarria for a much-needed change of pace. Although we had soaked up some of its inviting atmosphere already, the best way to really get to know the area is to do what the locals do, and spend some time in its numerous bars. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon at our own leisure, soaking up the artistic, bohemian vibe Lastarria is well known for. And then it was back to the hotel to get ready for our onwards journey and another colourful city to explore, Valparaíso aka the Jewel of the Pacific. Just over an hour from Santiago, it’s another must-visit destination when you’re in Chile.