altitude

Machu Picchu – a 15th century Inca citadel

4 January 2020 by tadgraphics

The famous shot of Machu Picchu, view of the main square from the city gate. Huayna Picchu is hidden behind the cloud — The iconic shot of Machu Picchu, view of the main square from the city gate. Huayna Picchu is hidden behind the cloud

Pretty much everyone who visits Peru goes to Machu Picchu at some point. For many people it is the main reason for visiting the country. It is without doubt one of the most recognisable places in the world, and one of the most photographed. It is considered to be one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, as it is one of the most significant pieces of human patrimony.

Agricultural terraces, you can more clearly how the terraces were built, amazingly, the Inca managed to carve out their stepped terrace farms even on these near vertical slopes

We too were making our way there, but we had taken the scenic route. We crossed the Altiplano by train and visited several other Inca sites; stopped at Cusco, Ollantaytambo and Pisac among others, and each had been breath-taking and deserving of some of Machu Picchu’s fame. Like everyone else however, we were looking forward to seeing the big one. There is a reason everybody wants to go to Machu Picchu.

The nearest settlement is Aguas Calientes, and this is where we stayed overnight. After breakfast, we walked over to the tourist information centre where we met with our guide and caught the bus. Guides are mandatory when visiting Machu Picchu, a requirement set by the government. As well as providing visitors with some context, they also help ensure that the huge numbers of tourists are managed (thus protecting the site), and also provides employment for Peruvians. We had got a sense of how huge those numbers were while in Aguas Calientes, but it was rammed home as we waited for the bus. The queue was very, very long.

On a clear day you can see a beautiful view of the valley below, this is an abandoned quarry

Machu Picchu is the historic site which gets by far the most attention in Peru. However, for the Inca who built it, this was far from their most important settlement. In fact, it was a relative backwater. The remote location, on the top of a mountain hidden up an inaccessible valley, is what makes it so spectacular, but it also made it a poor place to build a thriving city. Instead (clearly being a man who appreciated natural beauty), the Inca Emperor Pachacuti decided to build a personal estate to give himself a place to retreat from the pressures of ruling. At its height, Machu Picchu had a population of around 750 people, but this probably would have increased when Pachacuti visited.

The Palace of the Princess or Ñusta Palace

The weather on the morning we visited was overcast, thus making it the perfect temperature to go climbing up and down steep hills. As we climbed up to the site however, the clouds started moving in and when we reached the top, the rain started. As we wandered around the views were obscured by mist and being a photographer, I knew I was being denied some great shots. Despite this, we weren’t too disappointed because as the mist swirled around the jagged ruined walls, it added to the ethereal atmosphere of the place.

The semi-circular structure is the Temple of the Sun, Royal Residence behind the thatched roof. You can see the eastern urban sector in the background

Our guide led us along the increasingly muddy paths which loop around the ruins. She showed us the settlement’s main square, the circular tower (most likely used as an observatory), and the sacred solar clock. We were shown the palace where the emperor would have stayed, the temple of the three windows and then the cemeteries. The upper part of the city is home to the palace and the sacred temples. Just below are the houses that the bulk of the population would have lived in as well as the grain warehouses. Amazingly, the Inca managed to carve out their stepped terrace farms even on these near vertical slopes. As you look down at the valley below, you can still see the stone embankments they built to give themselves scraps of flat land to grow crops on.

Despite the weather and the crowd, the majesty of Machu Picchu is undeniable, and it was clear that its UNESCO world heritage site status is more than justified. It is a magical, mysterious place that feels like something from a fantasy story. The American explorer, Hiram Bingham, must have found it even more so when he rediscovered it in 1911. He had the place all to himself (with the exception of his indigenous guide, of course). In fact he would have been one of just a handful of visitors since the site was abandoned by the Inca during the Spanish conquest hundreds of years before.

Bingham was a real life Indiana Jones, whose adventures are as fantastical as Machu Picchu itself. Coming from a family of missionaries in Hawaii, he set of for Chile in 1908 for a conference and instead of returning home, decided to wander through the jungles of Peru looking for lost Inca cities. Machu Picchu was not the first that he discovered, he was also the first to document the existence of Vilcabamba, also known as the Lost City of Inca. It was the city where the last Inca emperors hid and mounted a guerrilla campaign against the Spanish. He had heard rumours of another forgotten city, high up in the mountains, and eventually persuaded a villager named Melchor Arteaga from the valley below to take him there. Although others probably visited Machu Picchu before him, he was the first to document it and bring it to the world’s attention.

Mysterious yet beautiful view looking down to the valley

Hiram Bingham took a photo of the site from a viewpoint looking down over it. This is the same famous shot which hundreds of people now take every day. It shows the ruins, the sheer cliff faces on either side, and the equally sheer peak towering behind. This is Huayna Picchu, and if you really want the full experience, it can be climbed as well. To do so, however, you need to book well in advance – its narrow paths only allow a certain number of people at a time, and so access is controlled by the Peruvian Government. If you want to climb it, you have to book at least three months ahead.

Steep terraces, looking down from Intihuatana

Another measure imposed to limit the impact of the huge number of visitors Machu Picchu generates, is to limit the time you can spend there to a maximum of four hours. If you really wanted to, you could spend a whole day up there taking it all in, but four hours is long enough to see everything, so we didn’t feel deprived. At around midday we headed back down to Aguas Calientes and enjoyed some lunch. Then we wandered around the souvenir markets while we waited for the late afternoon train back to Ollantaytambo. There, we met our driver and headed back to Cusco. While the weather had been against us, that couldn’t take away our delight at having visited such an awe inspiring place.

Sacred Valley – the gateway to Machu Picchu

13 December 2019 by tadgraphics

The Sacred Valley was one of Inca's most important places — The Sacred Valley was one of Inca’s most important places

Peru’s southern highland provinces are so packed with the ruins of Inca civilisation that sometimes it feels you can’t go anywhere without stumbling across one. It is only by visiting them and seeing for yourself the sheer number of constructions and the skill that their builders possessed, that you can appreciate the advancement of the Inca civilisation. At its height, it covered as many territories as the Roman Empire, and despite their eventual defeat to the Spanish, you can’t help but feel that in terms of power and sophistication, they were close rivals to the Europeans of the time.

It is only by visiting and seeing for yourself the sheer number of constructions and the skill that their builders possessed, that you can appreciate the advancement of the Inca civilisation. This is Ollantaytambo Ruins

We had just taken in Cusco, their empire’s capital, and were planning to make our way to Machu Picchu. It was tempting to head straight there, but between these two sites is a place nobody should miss. The Sacred Valley of Urubamba was one of the Inca’s most important places and, as such, it has a particularly high number of impressive ruins. We decided to take a day taking in the sites of the valley.

Pisac is located at a strategic position at the head of the Sacred Valley

This valley was important to the Incas, not just because of its proximity to their capital, but also due to the relatively lower altitude. In a place as high up as this part of Peru, this is a rarity. Because of this, the valley could be farmed more intensively than elsewhere, and corn, an uncommon and important status food for the Inca elites, could thrive. Its fertility was aided by the Urubamba River which flows along the valley floor. As the valley grew in importance, several towns sprung up and the valley became one of the favoured retreats for the elites and the emperor himself. The rich and powerful started to build large estates for themselves, so that they could escape from the city to relax from time-to-time.

View of Pisac town from the archaeological park

Our first stop was Pisac, located at a strategic position at the head of the Sacred Valley. The small town of Pisac is still inhabited by the Quechua speaking descendants of the Inca. During the height of their ancestor’s empire however, it was a thriving town, so large that its remains are spread out across four separate complexes.

Kinchuraqay, perched precariously on the side of the hill, were grain stores where precious corn was kept

Pisac’s main purpose was to guard the southern end of the valley, protecting both its precious agricultural land, and the heartland around Cusco from invaders. It is theorised that the main threat were the Asháninka people who lived down in the jungle on the eastern foothills of the Andes. These people resisted Inca conquest fiercely and may have launched raids up into the mountains.

The Inca carved out dramatic terraces from the hillside to be used for agriculture, you can see Intihuatana sun temple at a distance

Pisac’s main attractions can be found up in the hills overlooking the village from the north. The first site we visited was Intihuatana – the sun temple. Inti was the favourite god of the Inca and he was associated with the sun. Here the name refers to the temple as a whole, but there are many Intihuatanas in Peru, and usually they take the form of a sacred stone which, when combined with the light of the sun, functioned as a type of clock or calendar. This one aligns with the sun during the June solstice, and within the temple there, is also an altar and a sacred spring. The temple is another fine example of the famous Inca stonework on display. Its location high up on the ridge gives it commanding views of the valley below.

Agriculture terraces and Intihuatana - the sun temple. Pisac is one of Peru's biggest archeological site — Agriculture terraces and Intihuatana – the sun temple. Pisac is one of Peru’s biggest archeological site

A little further down the slope is Q’allaquasa. This was the main Inca settlement where the majority of the ruins are of the houses which were occupied by the settlement’s ordinary inhabitants. Despite not being grand constructions, they are still impressive thanks to their position on the crown of a hill. To maximise the land available for agriculture, the Inca carved out dramatic terraces from the hillside, reminiscent of those in Eastern Asia. These still exist today, and some of the most impressive surrounding Q’allaquasa.

Inca doorway, marking the entrance to the sun temple

The final site we saw at Pisac was Kinchiraqay. Perched precariously on the side of the hill, these red stone buildings were the grain stores where precious corn was kept. Stacked one on top of the other, their charm is completed by the sloping thatched roofs, and as with almost every site in the Sacred Valley, the sweeping views their position gives.

Pisac is an important argricultural hub due to its climate and fertile soil

We moved on towards the town of Urubamba for lunch. Urubamba is one of the larger towns in the valley with a population of less than 3,000. It is situated at a spot where the valley opens up and provides enough space for a town, as well as for agriculture. On our way there we were treated to more of the valley’s striking scenery. Following the river along the valley floor, we were treated to an endless procession of pastoral fields bounded by towering peaks.

View of Ollantaytamboo old town from the ruins

After lunch we continued up the valley until we reached the region’s other major set of ruins. Just as Pisac guards the southern entrance to the valley, Ollantaytambo, also known as Ollanta by the locals, was designed to stop potential attacks from the north. The site was occupied long before the Inca arrived, however it was Pachacuti, considered as the most successful Inca emperor, who really transformed it into a significant place. He decided to set it aside as his personal estate after he had brought it into the empire.

The well-preserved Ollantaytamboo was once a stronghold of Inca resistance to Spanish colonisation

Here he constructed temples, defences and agricultural terraces, prompting the development of a town to house the workers of his estate. That town was largely demolished by the Spanish, but the rest of Pachacuti’s work has been preserved, albeit in ruined form. It is not hard to picture how grand this place must have been, despite its abandoned state.

Ollantaytamboo looking across to Pinkuylluna mountain (right). If you look closer you will see the face of Wiracocha carved into the rocks. The Incas believed he was the creator of all. Next to it you can see the Pinkuylluna Incan storehouses, used to store agricultural crops to feed the town

The famous and impressive Inca stonework is on display everywhere, and some buildings are almost complete, apart from a lack of roofs. Structures like the wall of the six monoliths, which forms part of the temple complex, demonstrate the highly developed engineering skills that the Inca possessed. Built from stones weighing more than fifty tonnes each, it’s a mystery how they managed to drag them up to this inaccessible spot. Archaeologists believe that the temple was never actually finished, and it is thought that Ollantaytambo was in the midst of a renovation when the Spanish turned up and terminated the construction.

Another example of the famous and impressive Inca stonework on display at Ollantaytamboo

Clearly its defences turned out to be of no use against the Europeans, but that doesn’t mean that they were not formidable. Smaller fortifications dot the hills around the main site (as do grain storehouses and quarries from which the building stone was obtained), and the Inca even diverted a stretch of the river so that it ran across the valley floor rather than along it. This gave invaders another obstacle to navigate. Like at Pisac, the hills leading up to the ruins have been extensively modified to create stepped terraces, and while those at Pisac are bigger, these are unquestionably neater.

The Incas possessed highly developed engineering skills

We were dropped at the Ollantaytambo Station in the afternoon and boarded the train to Aguas Calientes. If it wasn’t for the fact that this is the closest settlement to Machu Picchu, this town would be of little importance, hidden away between the towering mountains. Much of the town has been given over to the tourism industry, and its streets are packed with visitors.

Ollantaytamboo is the beginning of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

While the landscapes of the Sacred Valley are spectacular, Aguas Calientes is further up into the Andes, and, its setting is even more dramatic. The slopes are like walls, and the flat space beside the river where buildings can be constructed is limited. The result is a small, but bustling town, wedged improbably into every available bit of space. It was a pleasant enough place to spend the night, but like everyone else there we were more excited about what tomorrow had in store for us – the ruins of Machu Picchu.

The scenic IncaRail 360o Machu Picchu Train has an observation outdoor carriage for travellers to admire the Andean landscape

A journey through the picturesque Andes by rail

24 October 2019 by tadgraphics

Picturesque Andes is the world’s longest and second highest mountain range

The Andes are, without question, among the most dramatic places on earth. Stretching like a spine from the southern tip of the South American continent all the way to Colombia in its very north, they are the world’s longest and its second highest mountain range. Sitting right in the centre of the range – and encompassing some of its finest scenery – is Peru. There are many ways to travel around the country and take some of its marvellous landscapes in, but one of the best is the PeruRail train between two of the country’s most famous sites – Lake Titicaca and Cusco.

The pristine Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable body of water, sitting at 3,800 metres above sea level

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable body of water, sitting at 3,800 metres above sea level. It is a place of desolate windswept beauty; a place where rocky slopes cloaked in yellow grass give way to pristine blue water and swaying reeds. In the distance are snow-capped mountains, and on the lake itself the indigenous people, also known as Uros build floating islands on which they live.

Visitors must hike along the pre-Inca Taquile Island trail and pass through the gate before arriving at the village

The pristine blue waters of Lake Titicaca hide a tourist gem, the scenic, tranquil and culturally rich Taquile Island. The island’s people, the self-sustaining Taquileños still speak Quechua, the ancient language of the Inca. The island is only accessible by boat. Once the boat docks on the cove, there is a short hike along a pre-Inca trail overlooking spectacular landscapes of the island. Taquile is known for producing some of Peru’s finest quality textiles and clothing. These delicately hand-knitted crafts is an activity exclusively reserved for men, a tradition practiced since the time of the Incas. Taquile’s hand-knitted textiles are considered so unique that they were named Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2005.

Taquileño knitting men, a tradition practiced since the time of the Incas

The lake straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia, and the town of Puno is the most popular base for travellers on the Peruvian side. From here, visitors can take trips out onto the lake, or visit some of the nearby pre-Hispanic ruins. The town itself possesses a few attractive colonial buildings and all this makes it a good place to spend a few days. It is from here that the PeruRail train leaves.

Town of Puno possesses a few attractive colonial buildings

There are still working trains in Peru which are used for day-to-day transport and for moving goods around the country. This train, however, is not one of them. It exists solely to provide travellers with a memorable experience, and for this reason, is a lot more comfortable and grander than your average commuter train. The interiors of the carriages are all wooden panelling, dimmed yellow lighting and white tablecloths. It feels like something from the golden age of rail travel, not something that you immediately associate with Peru, but a welcome feature nonetheless.

Everything else about the journey, however, is designed to highlight what a spectacular and culturally rich country Peru is. You can walk freely between the dining carriages and the observation car, which has been fitted out with glass. Its windows extend across the roof to show off the big blue skies, and the rear of the car opens up into a balcony.

Peru is blessed with a huge variety of dramatic scenery, with everything from Amazon rainforests to one of the driest dessert on earth. The part of the country which the train travels through is known as the altiplano, and it alternates between sweeping open high altitude plains and jagged mountain peaks. Through the windows on one side, you might see empty grassland populated with only the occasional llama herd, while on the other, dramatic white peaks loom, casting their shadow over the train.

It feels impossibly lonely up here, but every now and again you are surprised by the sight of a tiny village rolling into view or someone walking alone across the empty landscape. The train passes through a few larger towns, and one of the most interesting comes soon after departing Puno. Juliaca is not the sort of place visitors would usually stop, however, passing through by train gives a fascinating glimpse of everyday life in the Peruvian Andes. The tracks cut right through the middle of the town market, with the stalls passing within touching distance. Locals go about their business, haggling for everything from food to building supplies, and children wave at you as they wait for the train to pass so they can cross the tracks. This is a slice of Peru at its most authentic.

A fascinating glimpse of everyday life of the Peruvian Andes as the train tracks cut right through the middle of the Juliaca town market, with the stalls passing within touching distance

Around halfway along, the train reaches its highest point, the pass at La Raya – a rare opening in the surrounding mountains which allows the track to cut through. At 4,319 metres above sea level and hemmed in by peaks, it’s hard to believe that this place would be inhabited if it wasn’t for the passing trains. Inhabited it is however (just about), and it is here that the train makes its only stop. It is worth using some of the time to peruse the small handicraft market, and some more to step inside the small chapel. Once you have done that, you have seen everything manmade that La Raya has to offer. The best thing about the stop, however, is the chance to step out into the spectacular scenery you have been passing, and spend some time taking it all in.

Spectacular snow-capped mountains at La Raya. This cold and remote village is the highest point of the Lake Titicaca-Cusco route which is located at 4,319 metres above sea level

Peruvian culture is not just on display outside the train, you can experience it up close thanks to the entertainment included as part of the ticket. Passengers are serenaded by a band made up of guitars, tiple, flute, percussion and of course pan pipes. The haunting Andean melodies make a perfect addition to the landscapes rolling past outside. The indigenous culture of the altiplano is particularly colourful, and it is on full display in the dress and movement of the dancers who accompany the music.

The beautiful train is furnished with 1920s-style Pullman carriages. The open-air observation carriage is a dream for photographers keen to capture the dramatic scenery of the Peruvian Andes

After ten hours the train reaches Cusco, its final destination. If you visit Peru, the chances are you will end up in Cusco at some point. It is the starting point for visits to the famous Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, two of the country’s world famous attractions. The city itself was once the capital of the Inca Empire and later became an important colonial town for the Spanish. They built their opulent mansions, cathedrals and plazas right on top of the existing city, resulting in a unique hybrid architecture. Inca walls made from enormous stone blocks – somehow fitting together perfectly without the need for cement – sit next to whitewashed Iberian villas. Sometimes the two can be found within the same building. While most come here by road, the PeruRail train from Puno has to be the best way of arriving. You won’t get the luxurious comfort, the sweeping views and the exposure to Peruvian culture on a bus.

Every now and again you are surprised by the sight of a tiny village rolling into view

Prints from my trip on the Puno-Cusco train, as well as the rest of my South American adventure are available to purchase. Get in touch if you want to own a piece of the Peruvian landscape.

The route covered by the PeruRail Titicaca train is considered as one of the most beautiful rail journeys in the world

Coping with altitude sickness

Altitude sickness is a very real problem up in the high Andes, and most visitors will experience some effects. For many this will mean nothing more than a shortness of breath, but for an unlucky few, the headaches, nausea and dizziness can be enough to require hospital treatment. Fortunately, there are simple precautions which can reduce the effects of altitude.

Ascending slowly is one of the most effective ways of preventing altitude sickness. While many of the most breath-taking sights in the Andes are above 3,000 metres, there are plenty of things to see at lower elevations. Stopping for a few days at medium altitudes can help your body adjust gradually, and reduce the strain it feels when you get really high up.

Taking extra care to look after yourself is also important. While dehydration, drinking too much alcohol and pushing yourself too hard are always things to avoid, up in the mountains they can aggravate altitude sickness. Your body is having to work extra hard to glean as much oxygen from the thin air as it can, and it needs your help to do so. Staying hydrated and saving some energy helps keep the worst effects at bay.